SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
Take a great leap South
Auberon Waugh
ALTHOUGH a number of French wines were included in the tasting and one or two of them scored high marks, at the end of the day we have an all-South American offer, with three wines from Argentina, three from Chile. Price was not a major fac- tor in the choice. It is the quality of these South American wines which takes the breath away.
The 1998 Parral Chenin Chardonnay(1) — it has 50 per cent of each grape — from Argentina weighs in at only 12 per cent alcohol. I liked it very much, finding it assertive and strong-tasting but delicious, with a touch of fresh lemons in the finish. The 1996, which we also tasted, was less assertive with a more honeyed finish, which makes me wonder whether the 1998 might keep rather well. In any case, at £3.95 it is a wonderful wine for daily drinking, or for weddings etc. The Carmen Sauvignon Blanc 1998(2) from Chile weighs in a bit heavier at 13 per cent, but comes across as a pleasant, light wine, not easily recognisable as Sauvignon, but none the worse for that. One of the panel found a farmyard smell in it, but I think he may have been sniffing too hard. Good strong flavour, lively fruit, but none of the hard edge which Sauvignon can have — some say should have. Entirely pleasant and quite high-class at £4.95.
The Carmen Chardonnay Reserve 1997(3) from Chile's Maipo Valley, by contrast, is the sort of wine at which some modern wine snobs will wrinkle their noses, com- plaining about its heavy colonial smell, but the truth is that at £6.95 the bottle it has a beautiful Chardonnay taste which lingers, with no oiliness in it. In fact it is a very superior wine indeed. It is a new taste, only 30 or so years old, and we would be fools not to take it seriously. Now for the reds. The Parral Malbec Merlot 1998(a) from Argentina is another 'Relax they might just have a VIP lounge.) nice and easy wine, excellent for barbecues and young persons' parties; women will love it. If that sounds snobbish I can only say that at £3.95 it is the sort of wine which most people are looking for. With a touch of tannin in the finish, it will probably keep well, too. It smells of Merlot and tastes more of Malbec, one of Argentina's favourite grapes. It will not frighten anyone at 12 per cent alcohol by volume.
The Carmen Merlot 1997(s) at £4.95 has a good cedary smell, a rich colour and full- bodied taste. More tannin than you usually find in a Chilean wine, but I found it gave substance to the whole. Good for drinking now, it might become quite a serious wine with a little keeping.
Finally, a most unusual Argentinian offering. The Weinert Carrascal 1995(6) first strikes one as a fine, rich Bordeaux. It is composed of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes and one would never guess it came from Argentina. If served at a dinner party, people would say, 'What a peculiar and interesting and unusual wine,' suspecting it was a very good claret and not wanting to be caught out. The panel raved about it, although one member insisted on finding liquorice in the taste. He likes liquorice, and finds it quite often.
The mixed case works out at just over £5 the bottle. Those who are suspicious of non-European wines, and have not yet made the great leap South, may wish to try the samples first. Tastes differ, after all, and there is no reason to take my word for it, but they are all excellent wines.
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