M. Paul de Cassagnac has been fortunate in a good
translator (Mr. Guy Knowles), so that in his French Wines (Chatto and Windus, Cis.) the tenuous aroma of his style, like some rare Vouvray which he discuss s, is preserved without that taint of artificiality found in books and bottles that have suffered _rude removal from the country of their origin. This is a most discerning and exquisite monograph, giving not only
consummate manse to the wine-lover, but revealing also the poise and pride of the French mind at its best. Needless to say, M. de Cassagnac urges us to a moderation which is almost asceticism : he will not tolerate sherry with soup, for instance, lest its alcohol clash with the more delicate vintages to follow. The directions for wine-tasting are very complete, and there are some observations on the serving of champagne which are little known in this country. * * * *
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