CORRESPONDENCE
A LETTER FROM ROME
[To the Editor of the SPECTATOR.] Sia,—It would be difficult to write even a non-political letter from Italy without mentioning Fascism. But whereas the daily newspapers, according to their political colour, give more than enough contradictory information on the political aspects of the present regime, outside of Italy it is seldom realized that there is here also what may be called municipal or domestic Fascism. Great as undoubtedly is the divergence of opinion on the methods and aims of Fascism as a governing force, there is almost unanimous praise of the results of three years of Fascist policy in municipal matters.
Though this letter deals primarily with Rome, what I say may be taken to be equally true of most other towns through- out the kingdom. Under the able administration of Senator Cremonesi, who, as the first Governor of Rome, has replaced the mayor, numerous improvements have been made apparent to both residents and visitors. Desolate spaces which for- merly offended both eye and nose with their accumulations of refuse have become well-tended gardens. The Tiber embank: ment, formerly unfit for pedestrians, is now swept and gar- nished. Dilapidated buildings, insanitary and sometimes unsafe, have been demolished and are being rapidly replaced by modern blocks, which, if of no great architectural beauty, are at least a vast improvement on the immense characterless edifices erected in such haste and at such ruinous cost towards
the end of the last century. On the other hand, buildings ofl historic or architectural value are being freed from the para- sitic hovels that have hitherto surrounded them. And within the last few weeks the beautiful temple of Fortuna, which not many years ago was in danger of total destruction, has been isolated, skilfully restored, and now, with the cir- cular temple of Mater Matuta, completes one of the most attractive Piazze in Rome.
The sea, which in a direct line is but fourteen miles from Rome, was until last year more difficult of access than from London. Ostia, the nearest coast-resort, consisted of a few forlorn houses, a modest alliergo, and- a wilderness of` sand. It was served by an uncomfortable and oVercrowded omnibus that left Rome at 8 a.m., and jolted over an abominable road for ninety minutes, repeating the melancholy journey in the eveni g. 1924 saw completed, after several years of stagna- tion, the new railway which has since been electrified and during the past bathing-season maintained an excellent; service. The distance was covered in thirty minutes at a return fare of about one shilling. That the enterprise has been a success is evident not only from the immense numbers of! Romans who throughout the summer made the return journey.' in the day, but also from the colony of little restaurants' and pensions which have sprung up and line an imposing esplanade.
One cause of complaint is given by municipal Fascism : discipline. Discipline and efficiency are the fundamentals on which Fascism, national or municipal, is built. Discipline and efficiency were the two qualities most noticeably lacking in the pre-Fascist Italy. In municipal as in national matters discipline has had to be enforced. Even now the tottris. t, accustomed to the authoritative arm of the London policeman, has scant admiration for the management of the traffic in Rome. But anyone who knew the hazardous adventure of reaching the pavement after alighting from a tram a few years ago will be grateful for the: regulation, rigidly enforced, that when the tram stops all other traffic shall stop.
Traffic suggests yet another reform that is welcome to those who have memories of the inevitable dispute with the cab- driver, which induced inexperienced travellers to pay high commissions to tourist agencies to collect or despatch their luggage rather than face an altercation. The old regulation by which the charge for a trunk was " by arrangement," a euphemism for extortion, has been replaced by a fixed charge, less than half that usually obtained from a foreigner under the old system.
One of the most difficult problems of the reformers was that of the beggars who used to be a troublesome if characteristic feature of the streets of every large Italian town, and of whom a couple were almost invariably found at the doors of churches and other places frequented by strangers. When the streets were purged of their vegetable garbage, it remained to rid them also of their human parasites. This problem has been tackled with effect. Those who belonged to provincial cities were sent back whence they came. Of beggars Roman born many were found to be collecting funds on behalf of sub- versive organizations, and have gone whither such individuals go. Those not falling into either of these categories remain, but their name is no longer legion, and in spite of the lure of the thousands of pilgrims from whom generous alms might be expected, Rome has ceased to be the Mecca of the mendicant.
As with the beggars, so with the other street pests. The streets of the fashionable quarters of Rome are now probably less socially unwholesome than those of any other great capital.
- Rome is still under the influence of Anno Santo with its increased prices and lack of room. That and the paradoxically unfortunate improvement of the lira as opposed to the franc have combined to scare off many of the usual winter visitors. But with the opening of the Opera season with Zandonai's Francesca da Rimini normal conditions should return. An admirable representation of Coriolanus, given in Rome for the first time, was the principal success of the recent dramatic season at the Costanzi Theatre. As Lear and The Taming of the Shrew were included in the company's repertory it will be seen that the principal theatre in Rome finds it worth while to stage Shakespeare.—1 am, Sir, &C., YOUR Roam CounEsPorrnENT.
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