A SUMMER IN ANDALUCIA.

TursE volumes describe a coasting trip along the shores of Portu- gal, and a tour in Andalusia and Granada in the summer of'1836; and form the most striking and characteristic book of travels which has recently issued from the press. The author has a know- ledge of the history, antiquities, and language of the people he travelled among, with, apparently, some previous experience of the Spanish character and Spanish usages; he holds the pen of a ready writer, well 61611Cd in the arts of composition, whether forceful, ele- gant, or lively ; and he has learned from habit, which is better than Miss 'Almon:souls, how to Observe. Ile has also in a very great degree the fitculty of seizing the distinguishing characteristics of' persons or things, and of well describing them. At Oporto, for ex- :oolitic, he only remained a few hours during the stoppage of the steam-packet ; yet, often as we have read accounts of it by the lite- r:try fbllowers of' Don Psono, none of their elaborate descriptions so clearly bring out the peculiarities of the city " built on hills," or the overhanging roofs with the " bright red tiling under the eaves," as this slight sketch.

()perm, or 0 Porto—the Port—as it is called by the natives, is built on several hills, so that scarcely a street preserves its level. But it is this which imparts notch picturesque beauty to the city, as it affords bird's-eye views over hollows tilled with roofs and towers, mingled with foliage, to opposite heights crowned by fantastic spires, with here and there a peep oh' the azure ocean, the roek-bound river, or the rich and su any country inland, with rouges of lofty gray mountains in the horizon. Some of the streets are broad and handsome; but in general they are narrow, tortuous, steep, rugged, and filthy, though in the last particular, as I afterwards Mond, they cannot rival those of the capi- tol. The houses are whitewashed or coloured; but many seem, like their in- habitants, sadly in want of new coats; they are not lofty, and have overhang- ing roofs with bright red tiling under the eaves. The shops in the principal streets are neat and tolerably well furnished. In the pracas, or open spaces,

markets are held; the largest, that of Cordoaria, was strewed with crockery of

singular shapes. Elsewhere in the streets fruit and vegetables were displayed. in stalls ; strawberries and cherries were already in season, though in England, when I left it but the previous week, spring had hardly commenced."

Had the qualities of the author been directed by a sound judgment,—or rather, we suspect, had he given. his judgment fair play, presenting to his reader such matters only as had novelty, variety, and character to recommend them, and not allowing two robe/nes to be uppermost in his thoughts, with a secret conscious- ness that he could readily fill them, —the Summer its Andaluchz might have rivalled Bscitroab's Letters, if in dramatic character and the art of narrating dialogue, it did not excel them. As it is, there are several drawbacks, detracting from the high classical po- sition the work might otherwise have challenged, and ii‘erating injuriously on its continuous attraction. The art of the writer is often too transparent. ; we see him working too much by line and rule. No sooner, for instance, does be arrive at a city, than he gives its history from its first foundation, through Carthaginians, Root:ins, Goths, and Moors, to the time of his visit : according to his own very good prescription for a tourist, he mounts an eminence, either bill or tower, and then, after describing the distant prospect, proceeds to give a bird's-eye view of the city. If the character of the history, or of the prospect, rendered this course necessary, its constant occurrence would only impart something of mannerism to the book, and to its occasional introduction there would be no ob- jection. But, too frequently used, it not only creates a mechanical air, but is apt to generate a mechanical style of description ; objects not being, as it were, looked :It from their natural point of view, but according to some preconceived notion of the observer. The descriptions themselves, too, excellent as they are considered singly, bear a disproportionate length to the other parts ; and the reader feels cloyed with skies, sunsets, moons, and the objects of a land- scape ; or at all events desires more of manners, persons, incident, or information, to vary and relieve the still-life. Not that the Summer in Andalucia does not possess all these ; but for due ad- mixture, there should have been more of solid and lively matter, or less of description. The route of the author commences in the Bay of Biscay, with a graphic picture of the coasts of Spain and Portugal. Oporto and Lisbon are his first landing-places, and at the latter Ile remained long enough to visit the far-famed Cintra. Cadiz and its vicinity next occupy the attention of the tourist; who then—desecration of ballad romance !—steams up the Guadalquivir to Seville ; which city he elaborately describes, not forgetting the Bull Fights, that, hacknied as they are, come forth with new life, vigour, and disgust- ing horror, under his hand. He next passed on by diligence to Cordova or Cordoba; and thence, with the national muleteers, to Granada. At this ancient capital of the Moors he lingered long; and, considering WASHINGTON IRVING and others had been there before him, narrates his impressions of the place at a length more than sufficient. From Granada he journeyed to Malaga, on horse- back, with a corsario; and, after satiating his curiosity in that port, travelled to Gibraltar, by the same means ; whence he sailed to

Cadiz once more ; and there his travels, or at least his volumes, close. -

Our criticism may have indicated the subjects of these volumes, but only extracts can give an idea of the spirit with which they are treated, and of the variety which is often imparted to the work by a judicious choice of subordinate topics • for description (to stand to our guns) is the main feature of the book.

THE STREETS OF CADIZ.

The streets of Cadiz are straight, and often cross each other at right angles ; they are very narrow, as is qeueral in the cities of the South, for the sake of coolness; this narrowness is increased, too, in appearance, by the loftiness of the houses and the projecting. balconies. The Call Ancha is the only " Broad Street " in the city; in the rest, there is seldom room for more than one car-

riage to pass, but as there are few or no vehicles this is not felt to be an 'in- convenience. Some of the streets. are extremely pretty. One fresh from the smoky dingy cities of England can scarcely believe them to be real, and is Temly to fancy himself transported to some fairyland, and traversing an en- chanted city, newly sprung from beneath the wand of a magician. The fronts of the houses, white as the driven snow when reflecting the rays of the sun, are quite dazzling to the sight. A balcony- painted a-bright green, and filled with brilliant flowers, projects from every window, and along its lower edge runs a streak of vermillion, which is generally carried on horizontally to divide the stories, and another runs vertically to mark the division of the houses. The -upper rail of the balcony is usually painted a bright yellow ochre, which colour also encircles the window; and a blue stripe or brown holland blind hangs over the rail from above. With this diversity oh colours on the glittering snow of the houses, which contrasts again with the intense and transparent blue of an An- dalucian sky above—a sky compared to which that of Italy has been said to be " dim and misty "—the effect is gay and elegant beyond conception. Most of the balconies are such as I have described, but a few are glazed as hi,gh as the top of the window; or all those on one floor unite and, thus glazed, form small apartments overhanging the street. Similar balconied chambers are common enough in the cities of the East.

The balconies are the favourite resort of the Gaditanas, who, seated beneath the sheltering blinds, pass their mornings in sewing or embroidering„ on which, however, they are seldom so intent as not to bestow occasionally a sly glance on the croivds passing below, and sometimes a bewitching smile on a fitvourite

-cavalier.

A LANDSCAPE NEAR CADIZ.

I reached at length a sandy tract, covered with dwarf fan-palms, gigentic aloes, prickly pears, and other shrubs, with many beautiful flowers peculiar to the country, cud with which I was not familiar. Numerous lizards, which lay basking on the sunny path—some brown or red, of five or six inches in length, and others about eighteen inches, of a beautiful bright green—fled into the bushes at my approach. Hawks of various kinds were sailing and screaming through the air ; and rabbits 11.om time to time rustled amongst the under- wood. These were the only signs of life in this wilderness. The extended plain, -with its thickets of fan-pahns, and strange, tropical foliage, the hot sandy soil, On which the meridian sun was shedding his fiercest rays from heavens of cloudless azure, the glittering towers, domes, and flat-roofed build- hugs of Cadiz, which rose into view as "I reached a blight eminence, together with the long lines of bright sands, coast dotted with snow-white towns, dazzling the eye with the glare of time sun, mind mull theown into still brighter and stronger relief by the intense blue of the bay, with here and there a cluster of lofty date-palms towering hi the distance, combined to form a scene so pecu- liar; so brilliant, and an strikingly Eastern in character, that with difficulty I could believe myself in Europe. It exactly realized my conceptions of the torrid clime of India, whither I could imagine myself suddenly transported.

I was here particularly- struck with the great want of green which is charac- teristic of a Southern landscape. Something there was in the foliage generally which might perhaps claim the name, but pale blue predominated in the aloes, browns, olives, and yellows in the other shrubs ; there was yellow ochre, too, of the richest hue In the sand, indigo in the sea, and intense ultramarine in the sky; hut of green—the clear, fresh, decided green of England—there was

none.

Enough of inanimate nature ; let us turn to a subject indicative of past greatness and present decay.

A SPANISH DOCK-YARD.

A short sail brought us to Carnes, the once famous navy-yard of Cadiz. Passing through a gateway surmounted by the royal anus, I entered an im- mense yard, covered with rusty anchors of every size. On one side stood a large shed, containing a few ships' boats, all in a state,eldecay. Further on, were sonic fine dry docks, built of stone, and in perfetarorder; but instead of the first-rates they were capable of receivin7 they contained only the lower timbers of vessels rotting. under water. Bonny, was a large building in which a number of presidiareos (galley slaves), under Alm surveillance of a few soldiers, were engaged in pumping the water out Of the docks. This my con- ductor informed me, was not because the dock warwanted for bee, but merely to employ the mnmi, most of whom looked ready- for any mischief; if not kept from it by bard lubour. There was a steam-engine in the building, for the purpose of emptying the docks, but like every Hong else around, it was out of order mind not in use. Beyond these docks were burnouse reservoirs for season- ing ship timber, of which there was enough in the water to construct a fleet, and it appeared to have lain undisturbed for ;Moly years. The yard was bounded on the west by the long wall of the rope-house, now ruined and deso- late. At the southern end of this, were other roofless buildings, whose bare, tottering walls afforded nestling places to,„stumerous hawks, which darted screamiug from their crannies at our appritach; while wild rabbits chased each other over the fallen rubbish below.

At the close of the last century there were more than Ave thousand five hundred ship-weights and other artisans constantly employed in this dock-yard;

but Spain luttl not then lost her vast colonies, and possessed a navy of eighty sail of the line. About the same period, her fleet, with that of France, on one occasion rode unopposed in the British Channel, bearding the "lion" in his -very den. Her present navy, ns I learned from the officer who accompanied inc round the yard, consists of but two liners, both at Havanna, five frigates, four corvettes, it few brigs, steamers, and gun-boats. On my expressing astonishment at this wondeful decline of power, he ex- claimed, " The enormous navy of thirty or forty years since was no true test of the power of Spain, fuel a /a narezpegado el hombre—it was the man stuck on to the nose, (quoting an old saying of Quevedo,) it wits monstrously dispro- portioned to her then rapid decay." At the south-esstern corner of the yard are some storehouses still in repair, but almost empty. The armoury contains only a few pikes, swords, and muskets, all covered with rust.

Pursuing variety of topics as well as of interest, let us, for the winebibbers, take the

NINE EMPORIUMS AT XERZ.

• The wine is the primary object of interest in Xerihr. , I visited the esta- hlishments of several merchants, and amongst them that of Donweq and Co., which is the first in extent, and altogether the most worthy of notice This wine is kept, not as in England, in dank, underground vaults, with low e:I ings, stalactited with cobwebs, but in vast and lofty houses, called bode s: from which the light of day is in part excluded. On entering one of thet:I was struck with the coolness and obscurity of the place—a delicious contrast to the heat and glare of the burning streets. The whole floor of the buddies. was occupied by parallel rows of huge butts, in double tiers. Of attltieensetiob,nutttle there are sometimes two thousand or more in one &Ayr. The attendant, from time to time dipping a long stick, tipped by a cane tube, into a cask and pouring the liquor thus extracted nito.a tasting-glass, called my choice specimens of the various descriptions of WilICS.. What with sherry of

every age, hue, and flavour, amontillado, boileil wine, muscatel, pararcte, hi-

tub, full glasses of which were pressed upon me ill turn at every step, my taste was confounded, mid my brain almost bewildered, before I hail ioade the circuit of the first bodegn. The sherry most esteemed by the natives is of inferior price, very dry, with little body, and free from brandy ; such wine, in fact, as would scarcely bre exportation, but which, with all the genuine sherry flavour, is, front its mild- ness, flinch more agreeable in this fervid climate than the strong full-bodied wines which alone are prized in Enp;land. 'The strong wine is never drunk by the natives from choice; if set before them they invariably dilute it. liven Englishmen here prefer the milder wines, fur it is surprising what sudden rsvo- lotions climate can effect in taste. 'rime choicest butt of sherry in llomeeq's stock is one whose fellow was sold to George the Fourth for six hundral pounds. It is more than a century old, very dark, and of a peculiarly rich flavour, which the proprietor assured me was the effect of age alone. Of the vast quantity, and value of the wine in the stores at Xer6z, some idea may be formed from the fact, that in Domecq's boelegas alone are no less than eleven thousand butts, averaging in value on the spot one Montreal mid thirty or' one hundred and forty dollars, or about thirty pounds sterling per butt.

Passing over a good description of the mules of Spain—their docility, sagacity, powers, price, and size-7-we will take a sketch of a character familiar to the readers of Spanish romances.

TIIE MULETEER.

But to turn from the beast to his master. The corsario is an important member of Spanish society : without him the haulm' communication of the country, and what little traffic yet subsists between remote districts and cities, would be at an end. As hisCharaeter is his meat and drink, his honesty is unshaken ; and the confidence reposed in him by the merchant is unlimited. From his hardy, roving mode of life, he becomes independent in spit-it ; front constant exposure to peril, courageous and resolute ; from convoying travellers, obliging, sociable, evee cheerful; it connnualcative. and amusing compagnon sic voyage. Toivards his beasts he displays the aifection of an Arab, treating them . .

with great tenderness, never thinking of Ins own wants on reaching a yenta, till his mules are unburdened and fed, end lying down to sleep at their able on the same straw, with a pack-saddle or his a/fin:pis tbr a pillow. In short, iii him is exhibited the Spanish character under its thirest aspect, arrayed in all its virtues, and stripped of most of its vices. Lids paid greitt attention to all—bipeds as well as quadrupecl—under his charge. From time to time lie rode round, offering each traveller braid, sausages, cheese, and fruit, of all which he hail a plentiful supply in his saddle- bags. These provisions, however, were so impregnated with garlic, that I thing them away in disgust, preferring, to refresh mysell' with alternate dniughts front the water-jar, and wine-skin, that hung at the se.V.le of a coinpanion. The water-jar was an alcarrezza, a vessel of porous white earth, used ilir cooliug water by evaporation, and though extremely slight and brittle, capable of bear- ing the motion of a mule travelliug at the rate of two-and-a-half or thrse miles en hour. The wine-skin was a bottle (hot(*) of untannedigoat's leather, with the hair. inside, and well lined ivith pitch to close the seams. To the neck was attached, for the convenience of the traveller,.a small cup of horn, with a wooden stopper for a cork.

But the fair, or rather the brown, must not be forgotten in a de- scription of Spain.

SPANISH BEAUTY AT FIRST SIGHT.

I hail thus, moreover, the best means of juilg:ng of the claims to beauty Maintained by the Gat:outs. In this I must caailidly ackuowledge I was at first disappointed. Whether my expectations had been too highly raised by the rhapsodies of travellers, or whether the darkness of the Spanish complesioa contrasted unfavourably with the fair skins of the Devonshire and Cornish damsels, I know not ; but the large majority seined to possess little; beauty save in their eyes. Yet these, however full, black, well-fringed, and melting, though " half languor and half lire," will alone never constitute a face beau- tiful : regular features told swevtness of expression are equally inilispens:Ol:. A. feNV possessed miii tliosie; and, in spite of' their complexions, might have lad claim to beauty in any country. The swarthy skin, by the by, was by no means universal ; and I was surprised to see so many thir faces amongst a race whose duskiness has passed into a proverb. Some would have been esteemed fair even in England, having light hair, blue eyes, and all the characteristics of blondes; though these, as may be supposed, were rare exceptious. But if beauty was scarce, grace was abundant ; and there were few, from the countess to the gipsy, who did not walk with elegance, and display a thousand champ in the play of the fan and the arrangement of the mantilla. I had another opportunity in the evening, on the Prado, of judging of Spa- nish beauty, but my opinion was little altered by what I there saw. In fact, as I walked up and down before the rows of ladies seated on the stone benches on either hand, the paucity of whet an Englishman would call " pretty girls," astonished nit'. All indeed, nearly without exception, kat fine eyes, and an animated expressiim of countenance ; their principal dieleti was the WRIit of that regularity and delicacy of features which characterize our own countrywomen. When the Oaditanas unite these and a clear complexion to their other charms, they are preeminently beautiful. Their forms are gene- rally good,eff....len of tutu exquisite contour, though rather below than above the middle height ; their feet arc delicately small and pretty ; and, as I watcheil these, cased in net-evorkeil stockings and sandailel slippers, emerging from math the short baseplince, or gmvii, as they paraded to and fro, and observed flue graceful bearing of the head and neck, and gentle swimming gait, I beg,an to comprehend the secret of Spanish beauty, to see that it consists rattle: ele.- game of figure and manner than in regularity of fsatures ; and that its fusel. nations are displayed to more advantage in motion then in repose.

But it is not the walk alone of these fair ones that is so attractive ; every

Andaluzas is, indeed, boyond description ; it Must be seen to be understood ; and yet %trait-

attitude, every motion, every gesture, is graceful in the extreme, out affectation, for all appears perfectly easy and natural. The grace im the

it is unrivalled ill SPRIO and elsewhere, if 1 may credit the reports of travellers who have visited, the rest of Europe, the East, and the Americas, and assured me that the Andaluzits are im where equalled in this particular. The contr!ist between these daughters of the South and our English dailleS is striking enough; even the French ladies, whom we are accustomed to regard as models of elegance, are very Mr behind the fair Spaniards. All which tends to prove that it is " in the blood," as the natives themselves assert, that it is nature rather than art that produces this exquisite grace. It may arise in great mea- sure from the fine proportions of their forms.

A FAN AND ITS USES.

Mc fan is as universal as the mantilla. Rarely is a Spanish woman to be eel% without it, even Avithin doors ; not taking it up tbr the sake of conveni- Nice, but making it as indispensable an article of dress as her gown or shoes. Notronder the (Alnico is no great a thvourite, for none but an Espanola knows bow to wield it ; and in her hands it becomes an elegant as well as a dangerous weapon—a principal auxiliary in the art of intrigue. With it she speaks a koguage, understood indeed only by the initiated, -but in which, elided by her loofa, /he can address her admirer almost as plainly as with the Vippis of her mouth ; awakening in his breast by an emphatic furl or motion of her fan, &liveliest joy or the deepest despondency. She rarely allows it to vendee idle in her hands ; now fanning herself slowly, now rapidly ; or closing it with Is sadden furl on one side, opening it again in a moment, and closing it on the other, and all with one hand ; uniting to apparent uncousciousness the most Welled grace in every mavement.

Turn we to a less graceful habit of the male kind.

UNIVERSALITY OF SMOKING.

It is astonishing the passion of Spaniards for smoking. Rank or ago muses no difference in this respect. The noble always carries a cigar-case, a silver tube of yesca, or German tindyr, and the necessary apparatus for striking a light ; the peasant—nay, even the beggar—has his flint and scrap of yesea, with which, and the aid of his naeaja, he may light the fragments of ow, &my he has begged, or picked up in the street, and which, chopped tine and carefully wrapped in a morsel of paper, may lead him to forget for a while the more natural cravings of hunger. Boys, too, of the tenderest age, must have flair cigarillos; and some ladies are said to indol,:e in the same luxury, though I cannot say I ever witnessed this profanation uf female lips. But I. hare seen the weed wrapt in the leaf of maize in tiny rolls scarcely thicker than a bodkin, professedly made for this unholy purpme. No preseut is so acceptable to a Spaniard as some choice Habanas; nothing conciliates his goodwill like the offer a cigar. Is he in a towering passion, foaming with rage/ a cigar produces a magical effect; calms him down, like .oil upon the waters ; changes the IMn into a. lamb. Does he threaten you with violence or robbery ? the cigar, presented at this critical moment, will at least insure civil treatment. On lids account it is always advisable for the traveller in Spain, even though no smoker, to provide himself with a stock of cigars wherewith to propitiate the favour of all men. ' El eilarro es aka- bete—the cigar is a procurer," says the proverb. It is the medium of intro- duction to any person, or to any house. It you wish to smoke, it is almost a sacred duty to supply you with a light ; you may knock at any door, and the baws and compliments for the civilities rendered can be made the prelude to further acquaintance. The cigar levels fur at time all distiections. The noble could not refuse to take the cigar from his mouth to assist the unhelightal peasant, who would not scruple to deman.l this common act of courtesy. Time, indeed, would fail to tell of the wonders to be v.-naught by a simple IQ of tobacco-leaf.

Rarely have I met with a Spaniard who did not smoke, and never Nvith one who 11Fed a pipe of any description. The desire of ;di classes, indeed, seems to be to 5rnoke with as much delicacy as possible ; few there are ■rho do not cut up their cigars into cigarillos. Tile higher classes do not often smoke within

'

doom but the middle and lower smoke at every hour and in every place. In their hands before, after, and even during meals; at home, in business, on flee rado, in the public romn or conveyance ; and sometimes evea in the theatre, n the cigar to be seen ; nay, I remember in a public office at Seville, a smould- ering rape's end tied to a column that the clerks tai:J.11; have at hand where- withal to light their cigars. A Sleuth:1-d end his cigar are inseparable.

A fortnight ago, we quoted some passages from Mr. SYMONS, descriptive of the effects of prohibitive or high protective duties in France. The author before us furnishes several particulars rela- tive to the working of the same system in Spain. For its Western prothiees, Oporto and Lisbon are the grand depks ; the goods being smuggled through Portugal, and over the mountain frontier, The extent of traffic may be divined when . we see it stated that the transit-duty on British goods imported into Portugal for this illicit traffic, amounts on an average to 700,000/. per annum. (Vol I. page 42.) All this, and as much more of heir taxation as the trade would bear, is a dead loss to the Spanish trea- sury; and it causes an increased expense to th s consumers of the goods, besides diverting the smugglers from r rgular industry and i engaging them in systematic violations of the law. For the Mediter- ranean frontier, Gibraltar is the head dept ; and most of the traffic is carried on by sea. To put it down, small watch-towers are erected along the coast, at about half a league apart—for the

private benefit, it would seem, of the officers in ceommand. •

"The contrahandista who conducts business on a large scale, receives his orders in the country, proceeds to Gibraltar, well proviered with funds, buys the goods, freights a bark, and sails tier the coast where he wishes to land. Here the vessel arrives generally at night ; should she, if discovered, not re- spond satisfactorily to the hailing of the soldiers, a fire is lighted outside the nearest torron, ma one tower offer another repeats the signal, till in a short time all are on the alert, and a strong force of soldiery is ready at any point where a landing may be attempted. This is the legitimate course of events ; but more generally the matter turns out otherwise. A 'composition ' it made. The vessel stands off during the day, but at night runs in towards the land, and the contrabandista rows ashore as a simple cavalier, and proceeds to the nearest tower. He answers the sharp challenge of the sentinel, ' Quien rim? by re- questing to speak to the commanding officer on the station. When closeted with hiel, he confesses at once that he has a cargo of contraband !youtls to run ashore, and offers thee soldier a peel share in the spoil as the i■rice of forbearance. It cannot be expected in it country where most public servants, from the prime minister to the lowest albumen?, either peculate or ere open to bribery, and where it is hardly considered dishonourable, but almost one of the duties of an official station so to do, that • an ill-paid military officer would make a dis- ides. of public honesty, which would neither be understood nor appreciated. Ihis argument to the pocket, then, rarely fails of success. The bargain is soon struck: the contrabandist is to land his cargo at a certain hour the next night, the captain is to withdraw his soldiers to another part of the coast, under pre- tence of having received intelligence of a meditated descent of a band of smegglers, olefin recompense thereof; when the goods are safe inland, he is to receive a present of a handsome Hum—several hundred dollars, it may be, more or less, according to tile value of the cargo. As there is honour among rogue's, Ile does not refuse to trust to the honesty of the smuggler for the fulfilment of his part of the agreement."

The higher class of smugglers are " most respectable men."

" The Spanish contrabandistas of the better class are a noble set of men, leanly and daring, generous, and strictly honourable. I have heard Eiu.diblinen who have travelled with and been entertained by them, speak in the highest terms of their courtesy and hospitality. Smugglers of the inferior class will rarely scruple to turn robbers waen opportunities offer, hut the couteabandiOa par excellence disdains to plunder any thing less than the royal treasury. Their course of life is not so hazardous as it would appear, for the aduaneros are either too much afraid of them openly to attack them, or are rendered compliant by bribes. The alealdes of the villages where the contrabandists reside are also bribed, and seldom attempt to disturb them. Now and then, when they know that a smuggler has nothing contraband in his house, the ukoide and aduaneros, either to satisfy their consciences, or, more likely, to make a report, pay him au official visit. The contrabandist receives them courteously, assures them their suspicions are entirely unfounded, but tells them to please themselves, to search everywhere. This they do, and when they have pried into every corner without success, he offers them some choice Habanos, and dismisses them with "'lump ! Go away with God, cavaliers I ' The poorer smugglers, however, the mere footpads of the exchequer, from whom these officials have nothing to fear or to hope in the way of bribes, are sometimes seized as examples, and condemned to the prcsidius for a term of years.

"Never was the absurdity of prohibitions against the introduction of articles of foreign produce and manufiecture enure clearly evidenced than in Spain. Aa there is neither capital nor enterprise for manufacturing at home, the people must have made goods from abroad; and the laws prohibiting their importa- tion, or the extravagantly high duties which amount to prohibitious, have, in consequence, induced smuggling to an extent which has probably never been equalled elsewhere. According to recent caleulations, nearly 300,000 Spa- niards are engaged, one Way or other, in this illegal traffic."

We close our extracts with the contrast which English society at Gibraltar offered to our experienced and sagacious traveller's mind, after his wanderings in Spain.

" But what more than all must strike the traveller who enters the Fortress from Spain, is the Btate of society MI the Rock. On coming front a country where every one is disposed to be pleased and sociable with all around him— where distinctions in rank never interfere with the claims of courtesy—where the highest and lowest can met without the risk of degrading, the one or un- duly exalting the other—where the poor are not constantly reminded of their inferiority by thee rieb, but where the ' Gee with God, friend!' of the peasant is answered by the noble with a similar salutation,—the contrast in the state of society at Gibraltar is calculated to make the English traveller (it' net deeply imbued with home preju(Lices) esteemed ot; or disgusted with, his countrymen. Here is seen, sender its most glaring aspect, that narrow pride, whether of rank or wealth, which is perhaps the worst feature in the English character, and certainly the most disgusting to foreigners. The officers of the garrison look upon the civilians, with a very few exceptions among the British, as immeasurably intlirior to themselves ; they despise the natives of the Rock, many of whom are of great respectability and wealth, as mere scorpions; and regard foreigners as quite unworthy of their notice. This naturally begets in the civilians a hostile spirit, the long, smouldering sparks of which, a short time befbre my arrived at Gibraltar, had burst into a flame on the citizens pro- posing to give a ball to the lady of the Governor, Sir Alexander Woodford."

Although it has not fallen in our way to copy any pictures of Spanish society or Spanish 'character, several such will be found in the work, either in the shape of portraits and single scenes, or as passing judgments, or a general summing-up of the author's expe- rience. Viewed in any light, the Spaniards look indifferent enough. The fair side is limited to temperance in meat and .strong drinks, a general bunhommie and courtesy of manner, and a patient submis- sion to evil,—which, however, is rather the indifference of laziness. than resignation, and is, with their pleasantry, dependent, like the Devil's good-humour, on the parties' being pleased. The black is of the deepest hue : brutal cruelty, when the passions are excited, which is soon done ; great indifference to human life; general cor- ruption in public and private affairs; sloth, pride, swagger, and pre- judice almost childish ; in the remoter peasantry abject superstition, in the towns an unreasoning infidelity ; words, and a smattering of scholastic philosophy, arc the highest attainments amongst the educated males ; woman is kept in a state of almost Oriental igno- rance, and considered, though not treated, as an ; and sexual morality is at the lowest ebb. The roads and other remains of classical or Saracen antiquity, except aqueducts and means of irrigation, have been allowed to fall into ruin ; only three or four great routes, passable for carriages, radiate from Madrid ; most of the other communications are only practicable for horsemen, fre- quently only for mules ; robbers, neglected by or defying the police, occupy these with impunity ; many pr-inces are overrun by Carlin banditti ; and such is the listlessness of the people, the corruption of the officials high and low, and the state of the finances, that no indiyidual ability and virtue could act, in our opinion, upon the dis- tempered nation. The vices of the people and the condition of the state are traced by our author to the now declining influence of the Romish Church, operating from the time of FERDINAND and Isx.- unr.r.A r. and he seems to consider that Spain has no need of Ultra- Liberalism, or Liberalism of any kind. What she requires is peace with a strong gm-eminent ; of which the Spaniards are themselves desirous, and, which might be the means of developing the natural riches of the country, and raising the character of the people. Upon this opinion we are 110t in a condition to pass a judgment ; but, if practicable at all, it must be the work of time. The scheme of oc- cupying Spain by a foreign army to enforce peace and order, is at all events chimerical : as this is not to be done upon a " puny—a British Legion scale," we wonder what foreign powers would be foolish enough to involve themselves in such an interminable and expensive undertaking ; for not a stiver would they ever get from the Spaniard, unless by force—and not many then—upon the homely principle that "you cannot get blood out of a stone."