SIMON HOGGART
In May our thoughts turn to southern France in summer: roasting heat relieved by light breezes
across the dry and herby land. Cicadas are chirping, tiny lizards scuttle across the baking hot stones into ancient wood crevices, and cracked church bells wake everyone far too early, as if the locals had to be up betimes to till the land. They all went off to work in Toulouse years ago. No wonder the village doesn't have a shop, a café or, for most of the day, any sign of life.
Still, it's all very pleasant if you're a visiting Brit, and this month's mini-bar will let you savour the experience in liquid form. The selections come from the estimable Simon Wrightson, and they are all French country wines. Once this term implied red rotgut; now it describes some of the finest, most elegant and best-value wines in the country.
Take the Viognier from the Pays de l'Ardeche 2002(1), reduced to £5.75. Everyone loves the rich, melony, lemony and lychee flavour of a good Viognier. This is not a Condrieu — at a seventh of the price it couldn't be. But it is perfect for cheerful summer glugging, with or without food.
The Clos d'Yvigne Princesse de Cleves 2002(2) is a rarity: a white Bergerac. It's made by Patricia Atkinson, an Englishwoman who
• bought the property in 1990. (She
wrote a book about it, called The Ripening Sun.) This is a triumph: made from the three grapes that go into Sauternes, it is neverthe
less very dry. Yet it is also round and fruity and tex tured and powerful enough to go even with red meat. A wonderful drop at just £6.95.
As a young man I loved the famous black wines of Cahors, made in the gorgeous valley of the Lot from the Auxerrois grape (called Malbec in Argentina) plus a little Merlot. It's an incredibly dark, powerful wine, which needs the ageing the French often seem unwilling to give it. But this Ch. de Hauterive 1999(3) is the wine I remembered from my youth: flavoured and elegant. Only £6, and a real treat.
As is the majestic organic Dme. Terres de Solence 2001(4) from the Cotes du Ventoux, between the Rhone and Provence. I quote the tasting notes: 'Deepcoloured with ripe red berries, leaves, some sandalwood, juicy ripe fruit on the palate.' And I would add smoky, cedary, truffly, herby, velvety. Gorgeous at £7.95.
All prices are discounted. You can order by the case or get the mixed sampler, or make up any combination of the four wines that suits you. Delivery, as always, is free.
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