BURNES'S TRAVELS.

WHEN Lieutenant AtExAsrma BURNES, with the dray-horses, arrived in the Punjab, he was assured by the polite courtiers of the court of Lahore, that he was a "second Alexander." The parellel had it greater exactness than always accompanies diplo- matic compliments. If our author could not rival the exploits of "Macedonia's mailman," he at least trod in his footsteps. The ancient ALEXANDER descended the Indus and its tributaries from Lahore to the ocean ; the modern ALEXANDER ascended. If the reader takes up a map of Asia, cuts a thin slice out of the middle of a pear, and places the stalk tart on the south-west point of the Caspian Sea, giving it perhaps a slight inclination to the eastward, be will have about as good a notion as any common map can give him Of the course which the first ALEXANDER took. The second was an irregular planet : after traversing the top of the round, he struck in towards the centre, and thence made a zigzag course towards the bottom of the slice. Heroes also differ in circum- stances, as one star differs from another in magnitude. The an- cient soldier proceeded from the Caspian, through "Samarcand, by Oxus," to India : the modern started from India to the Cas- pian. The Greek, without question, was the first European who traversed the countries : the Briton claims a similar distinction —we presume he means since the Christian sera, and excepts some unfortunates who did not survive to tell their tale. In the land journey, the son of Ammon was accompanied by an army. whose military equipments and qualities and whose powers of physical endurance have never been equalled. The advantages which the kinsman of ROBERT BURNS possessed were purely per- sonal; for he frequently travelled incog. and always as a private individual. They consisted of great enthusiasm, great good-hu- mour and powers of adaptation; some knowledge of Oriental tongues and habits, with an aptitude to acquire them ; a hearti- ness of feeling, which is the true headstone of humanity—a dispo- sition to look at the bright side of things; and the habitual but subdued and polished caution which the practice of diplomacy in- duces. Here the comparison ends. One ALEXANDER wished in vain for a poet : the other has resolved to narrate his own ex- ploits,—which he has done in a pleasant manner. The style is light, lively, and graphic; and though it may want the colours which CONOLLY itnparted to his different topics, yet still varying with its subjects.

A personal narrative, however, is not all that the volumes con- tain. Their contents indeed may be divided into two, or rather into four sections. The first embraces the author's journey from Lahore to Tehran, through the kingdom of Bokhara and the deserts of hither Tartary (or the country of the Toorkrnuns) and part of Persia. Added to this, in the shape of an appendix, is the information he has acquired or procured in relation to those coun- tries: the first book containing a "Memoir" on the Geography of Central Asia; the second, an historical sketch of the countries be- tween India and the Caspian Sea ; the third, and the most practically useful, is devoted to a description of and disquisition on the Com- merce of Central Asia. These two parts, with some observations on the coins which Mr. BURNES brought home from the ancient Bactria, are contained in the first and second volumes. The third is occupied with the diplomatic journey up the Indus ; to which is added a "Memoir" on the Indus and its tributary rivers in the Punjab, not merely geographical, but descriptive and political.

As we said last week, the ostensible object of the mission was to convey some horses to the ruler of Lahore; the real one, to as- certain the course, the current, and the navigability of the Indus. With this view, the selection of some dray-horses was not

ill- judged, as their "great weight (in the words of Lord ELLENBO- RouGH's despatch) made it inexpedient that they should undergo the fatigue of a long march in a hot climate," and afforded an ex- cuse that they should be taken up the river. This was strenuously opposed by the ruler of the country round the months of the stream : the vessels were ordered off, and a passage by land was offered; but, after the exercise of much diplomacy, the mission was allowed to proceed. The diplomatic parts form, indeed, one great charm of the journey on the Indus. We see how little skill avails against resolute power ; and perceive the Indian rulers, aware of their danger, like a fly in a web, practising all petty arts to post- pone or avoid it, yet with a sad consciousness that they are en- gagedin a vain struggle against destiny. This does not, however, indiscriminately. ndiscriminately. RUNJEET SING, the receiver of the horses, seems anxious for the free navigation of the Indus; and, making a 'virtue of _necessity, or really depending upon our alliance, gave ree permission to Mr. BURNES to visit every place; and another ler, in a small way, was anxious for a treaty of alliance offensive nd defensive, and to become tributary to the Company. The read of us is in all places confined to the Government, : the sub- ects of the suspicious chiefs only wished that the auission had eon the advanced guard of an-tnemy.

Though the travels into Bokhara, &c. took place last in order of time, Mr. BURNES has presented theta first, for he rightly

judges that they possess the most interest. In the voyage, the !hes and feastings are only relieved by diplomatic wiles, or anti- quarian discussions, or descriptions of somewhat monotonous scenery. In the travels, there is at times as much of splendour, but the variety of subjects is far greater : landscapes of every kind, countries before unvisited, social conditions of various stages, characters of all grades, from the king on his throne to the slave in his hovel. In the social and individual pictures, indeed, the readable interest of these volumes consist. Travelling through the country in disguise, sometimes as one sort of Asiatic, some- times as another, Mr. 13 CLINES mixed familiarly with the people : appearing before civilized rulers in the character of a British officer, and backed by powerful recommendations, he was equally familiar in courts. In painting manners, he has not the breadth of Moirma or the delicacy of CoNoLLY ; but he seems to have more truly caught and exhibited the Asiatic character. Upon this point, his opinions are more favourable than those of Euro- peans in general. Lieutenant Buirsms seems to think that com- payers have hitherto measured Asiatics by a foreign standard, and where they find them differ, they cry out Sin, sin.

'Hie few extracts we can afford will be taken at random. We may begin with a piece of gossip upon

ASIATIC IDEAS OF EUROPE.

I have hitherto forgotten to mention, that our companion, the Nazir, was ac- companied by a person named Alohammed lIonsein, an amusing character, who had travelled into Russia, and often entertained us with an account of that country, and the metropolis of the Crass. It appeared to him, and several other Asiatics whom I afterwards met, a very close approximation, in wine and women to the Paradise of their blessed Prophet. A Mahommedan, who is transported from a country where females are so much secluded, would at all times be struck with the great change in a European country ; but in Ituasia, where the moral tone of society appears, from every account, to be rather loose, their amazement is great indeed. The foundling hospitals and their inmates are a subject of perpetual remark ; and, however much the Arabian Prophet may have.condeinned the use of intoxicating fluids, I could discover, front those who have visited Russia, that the temptations of the gin awl punch shops bad not been resisted. Many of the Asiatics, too, become ganiblets ; and commerce has imported cards into the holy city of lh,khuaia. The pack consists of thirty-six cards, and the games are strictly Hessian. lir describing the feelings of an Asiatic on the subject of Europe, there must be much sameness ; but it is at all times most interesting to listen to their tales. Particulars which quite escape us, and a multiplicity of trifles, are noticed with great gravity. Nothing is so. wonderful to an Asiatic as the European notions of military discipline and drill, arida he considers to be a description of torture and despotism. I had to an- swer reiterated and endless questions on the utility of making a man

d look al- ways one way, mai' off always with one foot, and hold Ida 'hands in certain positions on a parade ground. As they had not heard of the great Ftederick, I could not t efer them to his high name for an example ; but I pointed to India and Persia as sure proofs of the advantage of disciplined over undisciplined va- lour. The Asiatics, however, have a far higher opinion of European wisdom than valour ; and Wily, since the age of physical strength has ceased, wisdom. is bravery.

SLAVE-31A REF.T AT BOKIFARA.

I took an early opportunity of seeing the slave. bazaar of Bukhara, which is held every Saturday morning. The Uzbeks manage all their affairs by means of slaves, who are chiefly brought from Persia by the Toorkmuns. Here these poor wretches are exposed for sale, and occupy thirty or forty stalls, where they are examined like cattle, only with this difference, that they are able to give an account of themselves eicii voce. On the murning I visited the bazaar, there were only six unfortunate beings, and I witnessed the manner in which they ate disposed of. They are first interrogated regarding their parentage and capture, and if they are Mahommedans, that is, Soonees. The question is put in that form, for the Uzbeks do not consider a Shiah to be a true believer ; with them, an with the primitive Christians, a sectary is more OflioUS than an unbeliever. After the intended purchaser is satisfied of the slave being an infidel (kaflir), he examines his body, particularly noting if he be free from leprosy, so common in Toorkis- tan, and then proceeds to bargain for his price. Three of the Persian boys were for sale at thirty tillas of gold a-piece ; 4' and it was surprising to see how contented the poor fellows sat under their lot. I beard one of them telling how he had been seized south of Meshid, while tending his flocks. Another, who overheatd a conversation among the bystanders, regarding the scarcity of slaves that season, stated that a great number had been taken. His companion said with some feeling, " You and I only think so, because of our own misfortune ; but these people must know better." There was one unfortunate girl, who had been long in service, arid was now exposed for sale by her master, because of his poverty. I felt certain that many a tear had been shed in the court where I surveyed the scene ; but I was assured from every quarter that slaves are kindly treated; and the circumstance of so many of them continuing in the country after they have been manumitted, seems to establish this fact. The bazaars of Bukhara are chiefly supplied from Orgunje.. Russian and Chinese are also sold, but rarely. The feelings of an European revolt at this most odious traffic; but the Uzbeks entertain no such notions, and believe that they are con- ferring a benefit on a Persian when they purchase him, and see that he renounces his heretical opinions.

CAROOL.

Cabool is a most bustling and populous city. Such is the noise in the after- noon, that in the streets one cannot make an attendant hear. The great ba- zaar, or " Chouchut," is an elegant arcade, nearly six hundred feet long, and about thirty broad : it is divided into four equal parts. Its roof is painted ; and over the shops are the houses of some of the citizens. The plan is judici-

ous; but it has been left unfinished ; and the fountains and cisterns, that formed a part of it, lie neglected. Still there are few such bazaars in the East ; and one wonders at the silks, cloths, and goods, which are arrayed under its piazzas. In the evening it presents a very interesting sight : each shop is lighted up by • a lamp suspended in front, which gives the city an appearance of being illumi- nated. The number of shops for the sale of dried fruit is remarkable, and their

arrangement tasteful. In May, one may purchase the grapes, pears, apples, quinces, and even the melons, of the bygone season,—then ten months old.

There are poulterers' shops, at which snipes, ducks, partridges, and plovers, with other game, may be purchased. The shops of the shoemakers and hard- ware retailers are also arranged with singular neatness. Every trade has its se- parate bazaar, and all of them seem busy. There are booksellers and venders of paper, much of which is Russian, and of a blue colour. The month of May is the season of the " falodeh," which is a white jelly strained from wheat, and drunk with sherbet and snow. The people are very fond of it, and the

• 200 rupees-201.

shopkeepers in all parts of the town seem constantly at work with their cus • touters. A pillar of snow stands on one side of them, and a fountain plays near it, which gives these places a cool and clean appearance. AMID' the bakers' shops, crowds of people may be seen, waiting for their bread. I observed that they baked it by plastering it to the sides of the oven. Cabool is faunal fur its kabobs, or cooked meats, which are in great request : few cook at home. " Rhuwash " was the dainty of the May season in Cabool. It is merely blanched rhubarb, which is reared under a careful protectian from the sun, and grows up rankly under the hills in the neighbourhood. Its flavour is delicious. " Shabash rhuwash ! Bravo rhuwash ! " is the cry in the streets ; and every one buys it. In the most crowded parts of the city there are story-tellers amus- ing the idlers, or dervises proclaiming the glories and deeds of the Prophets. If a baker makes his appearance before these worthies, they demand a cake in the name of some prophet ; and, to judge by the number who follow their oc- cupation, it nmst be a profitable one. There are no wheeled carriages in Ca- boo] ; the streets are not very narrow ; they are kept in a good state during dry weather, and are intersected by small coveted aqueducts of clean water, which is a great convenience to the people. We passed along them without observa- tion, and even without au attendant. To me, the appearance of the people was 1001°C novel than the bazaars. They sauntered alsnit, dressed in sheep-skin cloaks, and seemed huge front the till intity of clothes they wore. All the children have chubby red cheeks, which I at first took fur an artificial colour, till I found it to be the gay bloom of youth. The older people seem to lose it. Cabot)l is a compactly-built city, but its houses have no pretension to elegance. They are conshueted of sun-dried bricks and wood, and few of them are more than two stories high. It is thickly peopled, and has a population of about sixty thousand souls. The river of Caboul passes through the city ; and tradi- tion says it has three times carried it away, or inundated it. In rain, there is not a dirtier place than Cabool.

TRAVELLING IN THE TOORKMEN DESERT.

After our passage of the Oxus, we connneneed ou. journey towards Bukhara, and halted at Shorkuilduk, where there were no inhabitants, and about fifteen or twenty brackish wells. The water was clear, but bitter and ill tasted. Our manner of- journeying now became more agreeable. NVe started about five or six p. m., and travelled till eight or nine next morning. The stages exceeded twenty-five miles ; but camels cannot march for a continuance beyond that dis- tance, on account of heat. At night they move steadily forward at the rate of two miles an hour, and are nrged on by a pair of tingling bells hung from the breast or eats of the favourite, that precedes each " quittar " or string. The sound is enlivening and cheerful ; and when their jingle ceases by a halt of the caravan, the silenve which succeeds, in the midst of an uninhabited waste, is truly striking. At the setting and rising of the sun, the caravan halts to admit of the performance of prayers ;aid the sonorous sound of " I'llaho Akbar " summons all " true believers " to the presence of God. They stir Ow down their beards, and, with their eyes turned towards Mecca, perform the genuflexions prescribed by their creed. We sat and looked at the solemnity, xvitimut suffer- ing either taunts or abuse ; and experienced a toleration that would have done credit to the most civilized country of Europe. In the society of a caravan, there is nmell good fellowship, and many valuable lessons fir a kellish man. It levels all distinctions between master and servant ; and where both share every thing it is impossible to lw singular. Our servants now ate from the same dishes as ourselves. An Asiatic will never take a piece of bread without offering a por- tion of it to those near hint. The Indian Alahommedans were swift ised at their brethren in the faith, who gave its a share of their food, and freely partook of our own. 41- Onr next march, to a place called Kirkinjok, brought us to a settlement (If the Toorktnuns, and the country changed from hillocks to mounds of bare sand. The well water was now double the &oh, or ti out thirty-six feet from the sur- face. The flocks of the Toorkmuns cropped the scanty grass around us ; and horses, camels, and sheep roamed about loose, as in it state of nature. A shep- herd who tended these flocks lingered long near our encampment. Ile was an un- fortunate Persian, who bad been eantitred about eglit yews before near Illeshid, along with three hundred other persons, and now sighed for hi, liberty, that he night visit the famous shrine of Imant Itirsa in his own holy c i iv. Ills name had been Mahommed ; it was changed to Doulut or the Rich—a -singular cong- nomen for a poor wretch who tended sheep in a desert under a scotching sun. He gave us a favourable account of his treatment by his toaster, who intended to purehase a wife for him ; but he had no hope of his liberty. Tile poor man prowled all day about our caravan, and expiessed many a wish to accompany it ; he bad, however, been purchased for thirty pieces of gold, and if he possessed no riches of his own, be yet formed a part of those of his owner. I overheard a controversy among some of the merchants regarding Christians, whether they were or were not Infidels (Katlirs), and, as may be imagined, was not a little anxious to hear the derision. One person, who was a priest, main- tained that they could not be infidels, since they were people of the book. When it was asserted that they did not believe in Mahommed, the subject became more complicated. I learned, from their conversatiomthat a universal belief prevails .among the Mahommedans of the overthrow of tl.eir creed by Chi istians. Christ, they say, lives, but Mabommed is dead ; yet their deductions ale curious, since Jesus is to descend from the fourth heaven, and the whole world will be Mahownedanized ! A singular instance of blasphemy was related by this party. "A native of Buduklishan blackened his face, and sallied forth into the highway, telling all the passengers that as he had prayed to God without any good effect for eight years, he now appeared to disgrace the Creator in the eyes .of his creatures." Fanatical madman!

Here is an account of the first sight of the dray-horses, to close with.

No sooner had the day broke than the Maharajah's people evinced much anxiety to view the dray-horses, and we had them landed for exhibition. Their surprise was extreme; for they were little elephants, said they, and not horses. Their manes and tails seemed to please, from their resemblance to the hair of the cow of Thibet ; and their colour, a dappled grey, was considered a great beauty. It was not without difficulty that I replied to the numerous questions regarding them ; for they believed that the presents of the King of England must be ex- traordinary in every way ; and for the first time, a dray horse was expected to gallop, canter, and perform all the evolutions of the must agile animal. Their astonishment reached its height when the feet of the horses were examined ; and a particular request was mule of me to permit the despatch of one of the shoes to Lahore, as it was found to weigh a hundred rupees, or as much as the four shoes of a horse in this country. The curiosity was forthwith despatched by express, and accompanied by the most minute measurement of each of the animals, for Runjeet Sing'is special information. The manner in which this rarity was prized will be afterwards seen, when it is gravely recorded, that the new moon turned pale with envy on seeing it !

These specimens do not altogether convey a favourable idea of the work ; whose interest depends upon its continuity. The graver parts we have designedly left untouched; and the reader who feels an interest in the history, geography, or commerce of the important countries through which the author has tra- velled, must refer to the volumes, and procure the map—without it, the study will not be pleasant, if it be intelligible.