5 AUGUST 1989, Page 23

Rude restaurateurs

Sir: Nico's title as rudest restaurateur (17 June) cannot go undisputed. Four guests and I arrived most punctually at Harvey's on 13 July 9.30 p.m. We were seated and wined with correct courtesy, but from then on waiters wafted to and fro but never to our table. The first course made a reluctant appearance at 11.00 p.m. By 12.20 we were waiting for three out of five desserts. Suddenly as one we decided to rebel. With a twinkle of wit we dared to voice the mildest of complaints. Oh horror! Marco Pierre White, the demigod himself, steam- ing with rage, jumped out from behind a screen. Miserable mortals that we were, not content to wait three hours for two `Hi, honey, I'm home!' courses, why, people queue for months just to look at his food, better a morsel from his kitchen than six courses from anybody else's, 18 hours a day he must slave for such unworthy beings, and so on. The two desserts were whisked away and we were shown the door. Unbilled I add. `Ci mancherebbe'!

When will these petty cooks come back to earth and put the food on plates again instead of silly pedestals?

Josephine Quintavalle

8 Chelsea Park Gardens, London SW3