HOSKINS ' S . *PA:LW:stall '.IT 9594! Tun- meritorious feature of Mr..Hoskineel
tour in Spaindiftlibiex- tent and manner of travelling; the defect is want of observation upon life. The tourist entered -Spain' frorii-tho Feriern frontier by Perpignan; and threaded, the provinces of .CatalonKiret- leneia, -Murcia, and Granada, to - From that.stiffingfer- tress, whose heat was scarcely bearable in April,.he Went onto Cadiz and Seville, and thence: to Madrid by Toledo ; passing thrQisgh La 'Mancha en route, after-making varteus excursions from: Se, e. When he had exhausted the capital, he visitecithe'Escoriali• and re- turned to France by way of Bayonne; journeying through Valla- dolid, Burgos, Vittoria, and Pamplona, -besides diverging to Leon
and other- places. • • • • I • -
In pursuing his- travels, Mr.: Hoskins adopted the best Mode seeing-the people. He took the diligeneeLwhen:he oiRildiiet- it, "-cross country " vehicle as it might be; when-there irtitt)Iiitniii he hired a sort of • carriage ; when neither was at - handlittuatO Afra. Hoskins mounted their mules. The travellers werulalsolittk,fas- tidious in their choice of accommodations; thertookitlierbeet inns when they could get them, and when'-needs-Were out up with the worst. This, it may be said, was a,riPeOtea0 Hobson's choice ; but it was taken in a cheerful spirit, were iodated in bear- ing the inconveniences of Spanish trawl by two French gentlemen they fell in with ; one of whom stood. sentry-over the cooking-pot to guard against the infusion of garlick or Other Spanish delicacies. The extent of his tour, and an activettntirfag habit, carried Xr. Hoskins through the more remarkable pArts-or Spain, and enabled him to see the most curious objects. His mode of travelling, his experience as a traveller, and a knowledge of the language, gave him facilities for observing the people, which -he only pettially turned to account. His mind'was less ditected to actual life than to the past productions of human: genius. The churches. and other edifices, with the pictures and articles of vertu they eon, tained, -diverted the attention ofthe professional artist too-muck from that which is more looked for in a hi:4k of triVelik,stindikVald have been more interesting at the present -Utoinentt=4'44,„,IfsPit, is." Mr. iipsiiins also refers too inifreli to hiStery-; story of nearly every town or phics.he;Cannes to, if it was-itursty way distinguished. -These things .-arealkdone well, especially-the artistical descriptions and criticisms; 7blit the-reader does noteitl peat the matter of- a guidebook in a narrative, and therefore fettla disappointed. If the Catalogue raisonnee. .portien of the volumes were se- . paroled from the account of the tour' the hook 'would be attractive as well as informing; for Mr.. Hoskins is quite capable of de- scribing men and manners as well as scenery. He has the artist's eye for forms, colours, and grouping ; he has a perception of "Cha- racters and humours," and an utilitarian's sense of produotion, especially in agriculture. This is a picture of agricultural skill
and industry from the South-east of Spain. •
"The-scene before us was one immense hive of industry- the roads-and fields were crowded With labourers, carts, and oxen. The hydraulic art of the East is the useful legacy which the Moors left to the Valenchins;nd this mighty plain is covered with a network of canals and aqueducts. The Arab shadoof is there; and my old friends the Egyptian sakeeas creak on the plain as the oxen drag round the stiff wheels which raise the strings of water-jars from the wells. It is unfortunate that -the peasants do not rely on their own resources, sink wells, and erect more of these wheels, rather than depend on their nets of conduits when there is no fish to catch. - The Guadalaviar, spanned with noble bridges, which may be presumed to be no longer and stronger than at times may be required, now scarcely contains sufficient water to supply the washerwomen busy at their work. "It is bold to attempt to draw the outline of this beautiful and interesting view, but impossible to colour such a picture, and do justice to the splendid ce of the sea and on the distant hi gleams of light on the surfalls, the'gor- pens tints of the immense plains, exhibiting all the hues of the richest car- pet, and then such a lapis-lazuli heaven above as in Italy or in Eastern lands could alone be equalled." And again, with more of wild scenery mingled with the in- . dustry. "At Abareque we left the high-road to Madrid, and turned more into the mountains. The cultivation of the land exhibits unwearied industry, fields above fields, in terraces. At different parts, where it is very hilly and there- fore more difficult to irrigate, the contrast is very striking between: the parched and almost barren soil, and the rich brilliant vegetation in the plain beneath. • • • Spain, As it Is. ay G. A. Hoskins, Esq., Author of " Travels in Ethiopia, and Visit to the Great Oasis," &c. In two volumes. Published by Colburn and Co. "The situation of Xativa is magnificent, at the foot of a fine range of mountains; with a picturesque castle, fatiguing to ..reach on a hot day like thisi.bot, if. the heat and fatigue were . ten times .greater, it should not be "killed. The rums of the castle are very extensive, and Many parts of them evidently of the times of the Moors ; the solidity of the tapia-work is ex- traordinary and there are cisterns, and.alsoarchee circular and pointed, , evi- dently very ancient. The small church, with its pointed arches, is more modern. "The view from. the .eamnait is really magnificent.. The foreground is splendid, consisting of bold and almost perpendicular rocks, crowned with fortifications, wild.,4r*. growing in the crevices,-.and goats feeding on the scanty pasture ; below lies the city, with its cathedral andother•ehurehes, and the more modern.. buildings mixed with orange and some fewpalm trees; the ..old'part,(ilirrit the extreme narrowness of the streets, appears to be one mass alarmed: iSurinrinding the city is an immense plain,', perhaps the Moat Nadant.incilie wilrld,idivided into small square 'fields, everyone of them sur- mteadwatlalts Amend of water, planted on each side with a row -oft reel- itr,%si; (Plot n9E In r401741 to Apar. The pa:Wrest between theirlight- green foliage. .and tee tick' cep colour of the corn and beans is very *th- ing, and Ida‘lx beautiful effect;' Beyond this plain are several villages, with their pretttehurcheii; and fine ranges of mountains." AtAttl41,tia nieHiiiiio not very far off, people were emigrating, owing to excessive drought; and iii Castile and the Northern pro- tinces natural advantages-were • neglected through pride or kzi- ness. Such are the contrasts =in Spain, -that it is not safe to form a jnagulent from one ptovincei to another, searoelyfrom one dili-
triet to -another. 1.. - •
Mr. Hopkins recommends a tour in Spain as a variety, and con- siders it predicable kw:in:for latlies or fqrnilies; but that those:who wish #o, eeo t1Ce eontitrylab.ouldavoid. the .easy mode of steaming AinAg (theAtflitemen eau coast and Calling the.principal cities, As.there iat to# uoli to be seen. in.thenithotiereally Spanish, and netlOgiciektlioNoyage. Any one, however, attempting: a• Spanish lout ,e0ePt,perhapa along the high-roads to the capital, should be accgytqrethlo travel,-Iwilling:.to rough it, and 'prepared to take men.r„tle -without; English.condescension or sUpercili- onsness.• " At St. Raphael, a place between Segovia and Valladdlicb Mr„; Hoskins encountered shameful : imposition-, and a- terrible Mght, in travelling," and the means of locomotion are never •of the hest,-;excepting ithe regular diligence :between large towns. The
inns are more adapted forr of manners orartists-than fot a family of respectable ,British _tourists. This is a sample, with an account of innsin-,general. . • • . - • •
"From bass to Areuta,:de Foul, three leagues; our route lay over wild plains, rarely at all culovated; and it was very late and dark when we, ar- rived at the raiserableVeirtaon as miserable 'a hamlet. • " There are three Claeseirf 'inns in Spain, the tondo, the posada, and the vents; without mentioning- the peradota,.Which are like posadas, but less frequently met with, and the ease de pupilds; which are only cheap boarding.: houses. A tondo is the hotel of, Spain, and seldom found except in capitals and large towns ; and there good rooms, excellent.heds,. and such dinners as hare always something eatahle,. even for the most fastidious, mayrea.sonably be expected at the moderate price of about five shillings a day for board and ladgMtg.. Bachelors, who haves the best rooins, even less. • ' • • "The posadais the genuine Sparrish inn ;• and in out of the way plates; where no diligences are-expected, it is always a toss-up. how it may turn. out —heads; there is nothing in the larder, tails, there is : hut with patiertoe and perseverance, and-a little soft-sawder, the landlord or landlady, who at least kilo* Where such things are to be got,.will procure something for your direseroor beforemoining- di -fill up the void the evening meal has created in the: basket. The walls of the posada' are always clean, as if just white- Walled. The linen of the.frequentlyrude but good beds is beautifully :white; and:the, pillows often edged with broad lace. The floors show no signs of dirt;"-and-are generally covered withpretty matting. A few Seas the me- son miyakip about, but ate seldom found in the beds ; and the More. dis- gusting animals are certainly, at this season at least, uncommon. - I must confess .myself agreeably surprised. with the Spanish posada; -being much neater-looking and much cleaner in reality than I expected. " The yenta is the solitary road-side inn of the lowest description : no- thing should expected to be forbid them but good bread, and often de.'; licious water, cooled in jugs of argillaceous porous earth, like the Egyptian bs. The Sentrui have often a fair' utside; but such as they were in the aye- of -Gil Blasnnd Don Quixote,such are they now. Let those who Wisli to learn Spanish idioms and study Spanish wit and manners rejoice when chance throws them into a yenta for an how or two, but not for a night. " At first we-Were told that there was not a room disengaged in the yenta; and we had the dismal prospect of 'sleeping in our galera, which is anything. but Weather-tight, and the night is bitter cold ; but, with a little persuasion, wegot a small room with a comfortable fire for ourselves, and the landlady gave up her chamber to the French gentleman, • "There is often. as much difficulty, an arranging pirties in the Spanish Yentas and posadas as in the time of Don Quixote ; and ladies are now not unfrequently obliged to pack together as they did then. " The landlady herself, with her moustachoes and dirty dress, was but a poor guarantee for the assertion that the beds were clean; which, however, they proved to be; and we had a good supper of stewed fowls and fried pets- toes, .thanks to Monsieur L— keeping strict guard of the pot, that garlic and other forbidden things were not put in. " Such a scene presented itself when we entered this yenta as Teniers only could depict. Above a score of the most picturesque rascals this world ever piodueed were seated in every variety of attitude around an enormous fire in the centre of the floor., There were costumes of Andalusia and Va- lencia, rich and poor, merchants and beggars ; nor was beauty wanting, for in one corner sat as Lair and pretty a blue-eyed girl as I have seen in S and-her presence seemed to sharpen the wits of the younger men. H f-a- dozen of the guardia civile, noble-looking fellows, were smoking their cigars. and enjoying the fun like the rest. An old woman was taking an immense pan of stewed meat and soup off the fire, and placing it before three fine- -locking Jaen,. who hadjostarrived, and were seated on low stools round a little table, - almost Oriental- in its form. 'They helped. themselves, with. spoons, and slowly and deliberately dipped and redipped into the pan, one alter another, until their appetites were satisfied, when the old woman put it on the fire again for the next arrival. • Others were drinking, and all•en- joy* the fire, and certainlyit was a glorious one. - • • " At the other end of the barn was hung on the walls Some of the harness of the _mules, which by thestrong-light at -thq-fire beaming through a very wide doorway could be distinguished in the most comfortable portion of the building, partitioned off for the stable; and the jingling of tlaeir bells and the strummkg_of the guitar a gay. Andalusian, glittering with silver but- tons, formed the music of the yenta. There is no lack of fun in these Span- ish caravanserai; time follows tune, ballad after ballad, and jokes and wit abound, frequently until long after midnight, and sometimes a dance winds up the evening's amusements."
Remarks on the political and economical condition of Spain are scattered through the volumes, and some suggestions offered, judi- cious, but impracticable, because they imply a change in S
society, if not in Spanish nature. The confiscation of the Church property Mr. Hoskins thinks was a mischief, because it has not been properly followed up. The conventual clergy did really superintend the cultivation of their estates; successors, doubtful of their title, do not. In feet, the "hurch alone seems latterly to have had life and energy in SPain. These facts on statues appear , to be as good a proof of as the conclusion Mr. Hoskins- deduces.
"!4e.N.apier saps, the fate of. Spain was decided at Vitoria, but the statue proposed to be erected to the Duke has not yet been raised. We must,•how- ever' recollect, that it t has never been-the custom of the Spaniards in any age to erect statuee to their great-men who, do not happen to have+ royal blood in.their-veins,: except in the churches ; where it appears-to have been the policy of the priesthood to represent to their admiring congregations, the great and intellectual: of the laud worship* at tbealtars, and bowing to the Virgin and the-Saints, We have amino Inonuments to their brave ad- diers,—to, their (lid, to Great Captain, .or any of the heroes of the Moor- ish wars; none to the discoverers of the New World—Columbus, Cortes, or- Tinuvo ; except to Florida. Blanca et Murcia, not one to states- men or poets and other distinguished literary men ' - and, strange in this bi- goted land, none eveu. to their great cardinals andarehbishops,—who, how- ever, generally took care to erect their own -useful monuments,in the shape of benevolent and permanent institutions. Humboldt, fifty years ago, re- marked, that we may traverse Spanish America from Buenos Ayres to Monterey,endio no, quarter shall we meet With a national monument which the public gratitude has raised to Christopher Columbus or Fernando Cortes.' The Biquisition-and the"priests, whose influence may be traced in almost everything in Spain, may have been reluctant, perhaps, to see marble statues of the great men who have ennobled the country, erected in the .market-plaoes, lesfitheir-flooke aright admire them more than the painted saints in the churches, especially when they balanced their respective achillvelnenM.
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