SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.

'Yakima,

A Glance at Belgium and the Rhine. By Thomas Ramsay, Esq Cattier. Brotrukrnr, Memoirs of the Naval Worthies of Queen Elizabeth's Reign ; of their gallant Deeds, daring Adventures, and Services in the infant state of the British Navy. With brief Biographical Notices of the respective Commanders. Illustrated by numerous Autograph Letters and other unpublished Manuscript Documents. By John Barrow, Esq., F.R.S., Author of "The Life of Drake," Ste Hurray • Atm:acme, Lectures on Subjects connected with Clinical Medicine; comprising Diseases of the Heart. By P. M. Latham, M.D., Ste. Ste. &e. In two volumes. Vol. I. Longman and Co.

MR. RAMSAY'S GLANCE AT BELGIUM AND THE RHIN B.

FROM a dedication to the Duke of Buccleuch, and some internal evidence, Mr. Ramsay would appear to be a Scotch Tory, of the Episcopalian, or, as he delights to express it, of the Apostolical Anglo-Catholic Church, with a more than leaning to the Apostolical Succession and Tractarian practices. Relaxation and amusement appear to have been his only ob- jects in a tour through Belgium, to Aix-la-Chapelle and Cologne; whence he ascended the Rhine to Frankfort, and then came back again : but his religious feelings furnished him with a topic of observation and inquiry, which impart something both of reality and freshness to parts of his narrative, although passihg over so exhausted a field. A tour among civilized and show places, too, has always society for a subject ; which, if not essentially original, has still novelty in the aspects in which it shows itself to the traveller, the little incidents that occur on the journey, and the character of the tourist himself. Besides these common advantages, Mr. Ramsay brings freshness of mind and an enjoying disposition to his trip ; he has also a sensible judgment; and his style is unaffected and neat. With these characteristics, this tourist would have produced an agree- able and readable little volume, even in a "Glance at Belgium and the Rhine," bad he not Men into the common error of turning a tour into a guide-book. A hundred years ago, it was right and fitting for a traveller to give a topographical sketch of every celebrated place he came to, if his own research had enabled him to do it; for probably the reader knew nothing about it, and had no ready means of learning. Now this necessity exists no longer, with gazetteers, geographies, bookmakers- tours, and guides innumerable, from Murray's hand-books to shilling pocket-companions. We do not object, be it understood, to have the writer's own impression even of such a well-criticized piece as the Descent from the Cross or such an often-described river as the "lazy Scheldt": we would even compound for an historical reminiscence, drawn bona .fide from the writer's memory before he began to read up for his tour. Still less do we object to special quotations, such as the French Protestant's description of the superstitious pilgrims visiting Christ's coat "without a seam," miraculously recovered at Trews; or the letter from the Romanist clergyman Ronge, denouncing the imposi- tion; or the hopes of Mr. Ramsay that the establishment of a German Catholic Church is possible ; nay, we are quite willing to consider his proposition that the Germans should secure the Apostolical succession by sending over some divines whom our Episcopi should consecrate as Bishops. But we cannot abide stories of Charlemagne, the eleven thou- sand virgins, or "those whom the rod of Alva bruised." Still less need is there for long extracts from Victor Hugo's Rhine, or such well- quoted verses as "The castled crag of Drachenfels."

Like other travellers on the Continent, Mr. Ramsay was struck with the equality of the Romanists in their worship—the absence of all dis- tinction of place or person in their churches—the continual service going on not only every day but all day long. He returns to the theme again and again ; and contrasts it with Protestantism abroad.

"There are two English Protestant, or, we would rather say, Anglo-Catholic chapels, in Brussels: one of them, situated near the Palace, is attended by King Leopold when he is in his capital. There being a great many English resident in Brussels, both these chapels, we learnt, are well filled on Sundays. But they are closed all the week, or nearly so, whilst the Roman Catholic churches are open day by day: and certainly, in this respect, the contrast is anything butfavourable, either in what is real or apparent, to the English Protestant system. Our Pro- testantism, in fact, wherever it shows itself on the Continent, is by this very con- trast made all the more cold and repulsive. Our own Episcopal system, pure and Apostolic though it be, is exhibited more like a sect than a church; and they who belong to it as caring more for periodical preaching than regular worship. Surely Protestants are as likely to feel their need of the daily services of the sanctuary as the Romanists : yet, while the latter have access at all times to their temples, and to the rites of their religion, the former are seldom permitted to enjoy the holy privilege beyond the weekly Sabbath. In saying this, it is not intended to de- tract from the merits of the Protestant clergy of Brussels as ministers of reli- gion: it is more the system than the men that the remark is directed against. But it must be admitted, that where, as in Brussels, there is a numerous body of English residents, it is on many accounts desirable that the Anglo-Catholic Church, of which that planted among them may be regarded as a branch, should be made, placed side by side as it is with Romanism in all its glory, as complete and efficient as possible. That Leopold professes to be a member of that church does-not appear to be a source of much advantage to it; for it cannot be said that his Majesty is its 'nursing father.' He tolerates rather than sanctions it." It may readily be understood without going further, that Mr. Ramsay, lib several other excellent persons, would have daily service revived in our churches : hat in this proposal two points are overlooked—the staff of the churches, and the national character of the people. In our cathe- drals, service is performed twice a day ; and probably in some parishes it might be done without inconvenience or distraction from other duties. But in a parish of moderate extent, one or even two clergymen have quite enough to do in preparing their sermons, visiting their people, and administering the offices of the church : for, of course, if a minister will not attend to these things, in which there is something of worldly interest, he is not very likely to post to his church in all seasons and all Weathers to perform a monotonous service to a congregation reckoned by units. Before the proposal has a chance of general attraction or general p'racticability, the temporalities of the church must be redistributed, and perhaps its corps reorganized. We are not sure, however, that any attraction short of operatic art' would draw a daily congregation to the generality of English churcheir. Our social system and national character are alike opposed to daily devo- tion in public. Incessant activity and fearful competition make us not only work but live against time. The angry surprise of the blandest. Tractarian, in business, would be quite a study while he listened to an ex- cuse of some miscarriage caused by the party responsible stopping to pray. An obstacle equally difficult is the national character. The strong holds of Popery are among people of exciteable temperament, where impulse dominates over reason. The artistical and sensual displays connected with the Roman worship—the tremendous mystery of the mass—the man- ner in which the Church connects itself with every act, and by conks. sion with every thought of life—together with the visible appeals to su- perstition by means of saints, relics, and so forth—operate upon this. kind of nature, (which is always irregular if not lazy,) without any re- gard to theological inquiry. The Northern peoples, on the other hand, are more ratiocinative and less artistical by nature—prone to inquiry in- to the properties of things, rather than to be taken by their outward shows; and perhaps disposed to regard prayer rather as beneficial for its effects upon the character of the individual, than for any sacrificial effect it may have in itself, and to consider it as efficiently exercised in private as in company with a priest. This character makes Protestants ; for it is the essence of Protestantism, which rests its hope upon individual faith, not upon clerical intercession. Perhaps the unpopularity of the Tractarian project arises from some dim perception of this kind. The people may feel, if they cannot exactly explain themselves, that these men are revi- ving one of the most mischievous principles of Popery—the power and. commandment of the parson over reason and salvation—the interposition of the Church between man and God, and erection of the priest into a. subordinate mediator.

But we are getting too serious ; so we will return from Mr. Ramsay's

theme to Mr. Ramsay. Here is part of an account of his Sunday at- Brussels ; which his conscience pronounced wrong, but he seems to haver

found pleasant nevertheless. We begin with his second or third visit ten the Papal worship, in the early afternoon. It was the anniversary of King Leopold's inauguration.

THE SABBATH-AFTERNOON AT BRUSSELS.

The interior of the Cathedral now bore a very singular and imposin a pear. '

mice; its aisles being lined with soldiers under arms, with their officers in -dress uniform many of them wearing decorations of honour. As every officer of state,. ambassador, or other distinguished personage, arrived and was announced, he was received with military honours—the soldiers presenting arms, and the drums beating a long rolling tattoo. The effect was strange, not to say astounding. The sharp clash of the muskets, followed by the deafening sounds of the hollow- drum, echoed as it all was through the vaulted aisles of the sacred edifice, made an impression which it will be impossible over to forget. The spacious floor of. the venerable place was crowded with people, wherever the troops left room for them to stand.; but all around the principal entrance, and a broad passage-way. extending to the choir, was of course reserved for those who had the entrée on the occasion. We were allowed to stand up upon chairs arranged immediately- behind the soldiers, and had thus a good view of what was going on. When eS. had arrived, the organ pealed forth— "Far adown the long aisle sacred music was streaming "— streaming amidst a scene of courtly pomp and military parade, such as none of' us had any idea of before. The grand "is Donn" was then sting with most en- chanting effect, accompanied not only by the organ, but a fine instrumental band: also. At its close there were a few responses between the priests and the choris- ters; and all was over. The officers of state and other persons of distinction then retired with similar pomp to that which accompanied their arrival: among them. was the Pope's Nuncio in a magnificent official dress. The crowd retired very orderly, and the Cathedral soon resumed its usually serene and solemn aspect. We followed the stream to the Park; which we found at the very height of gayety and splendour. Neither Paris nor London could have presented a more dazzling assemblage of beauty and fashion. There were chairs for those who were in time to obtain them; but gallantry and politesse abounded sufficiently to insure their appropriation to those to whom they of right belonged, the feeble and the fair: they were placed at a convenient distance from the orchestra—a tasteful circular erection, which was filled by aparty of musicians, who have the reputa-

i tion of forming one of the finest bands n Europe. Certainly they discoursed such music as one does not hear every day; and, enchanted by its strains, some sat :mit bound down by a powerful spell, crowds stood mute and motionless around, whilst others wandered about in pleasing abstraction.

We retired to prepare for dinner about four. Everything continued to wear the garb of festivity.. lhe streets in almost every direction, as well as the Boulevards, were thronged with holyday folks, and every place of festive resort along the line of our ramble was becoming crowded with happy visiters. Still, their pleasure was sober and subdued; wine was drunk in some cases—the light, agreeable sines of France or the Rhine; but, towards evening especially, coffee was the all-prevail- ing beverage, under the influence of which, cheering without inebriating, all wax peaceful and pleasant In the evening the theatres were open, as on any other day of the week; and being a,/Pte-day they were more than ordinarily crowded. No difference appeared to be made in the character of the performances; at any rate there was no attempt to accommodate them to the sanctity of the occasion. The people have no idea of any such necessity; all they want is pleasure, and the richer and racier it is so much the better. Rossinrs opera of La Gazza Ladra was given at the Royal Theatre; but the two minor theatres, which had an unusually large amount of fun in their amusements, far exceeded the more courtly establishment in the throng of attendance. It is impossible to justify this method of spending the Lord's Day:. There is a time for everything; and the Sabbath, instituted molt was for the spiritual improvement no less than for the bodily rest of man, is certainly not the time for such employments as these. This is one of the gross iniquities of the Roman Catholic system: for although the priesthood may not directly sanction it, yet they decidedly permit it; and, having the power to

prevent it—as no doubt they have—and refusing to exert their influence for the suppression of such breaches of a positive command of the Most High, they are to all intents and purposes participators in the guilt that is thereby incurred.

I was anxious to see the effect of all this gayety as the evening wore on. There was an illumination at the Hotel de Ville and some other places, as well as a dis play of fire-works in the Park. These drew together large assemblages of people; of both sexes; but, though after nightfall too, all remained peaceful and orderly. So late as eleven o'clock, I wandered alone through the lower parts of the town,. where, if at all, one might expect to find a fee-day ending in noisy if not tumultuous revelry. But all was quiet, and well-conducted. The grand place is full of second-rate cafés and hotels, and they were all lighted up, and full of com- pany. Music and dancing prevailed all around. I had the curiosity to east' several of the public rooms. of these places. One of them was the Hotel de Carousel; which by its very name would seem to invite a holyday people to carouse; but there was nothing whatever to complain of beyond the unsuitable- ness of the occasion [day]. All was harmony—all was order. Not a single instance of inebriety met my observation; not the slightest disposition to be rude was even shown towards me. On the contrary, I was received on all hands with the greatest civility and respect; and, so far from being regarded as an intruder into the circles of a people with whom I could not pretend to hold converse, I was almost welcomed to their happy and humble coteries, and actually embarrassed by their hospitality and kindness.