SPECTATOR WINE CLUB Simon Hoggart
EL VINO's is one of the most famous wine bars in the world, though fans of John Mortimer's Rumpole stories know it as Pommery's. For years its Fleet Street branch was home to the posher or sometimes more louche kind of journalist, including the late, well-loved Philip Hope-Wallace. He was one of those wits who, like Oscar Wilde, find that bons mots attach themselves to him willy-nilly. For example, it was once mistakenly reported that he had died. He returned after his illness to find that the management of El Vino (the correct formulation; I have no idea why it is universally called El Vino's) had attached a silver plaque to the back of his favourite chair. `Ah ha,' he said lugubriously, `a legend in my own lunchtime!' Told that Tynan had got a new, Chinese mistress, he said, 'Yes, the chink in Kenneth's armoire.' Or perhaps he did. Who can say?
Now the hacks have drifted east to El Vino's New Bridge Street branch, which is also pleasantly fusty, with ancient furniture, yellowing posters and a loyal, undemonstrative clientele enjoying bottles that on the whole are far better value than in most metropolitan sluicing holes. El Vino's also has a fine off-sales business, and this month's selection is from their list. Some are heavily discounted.
The Muscadet sur lie"' is crisp and fruity and well-flavoured. Much Muscadet tastes of paint-stripper, as lazy growers assume people will buy the name on the label, which they will — once. This wine, made from the melon grape, has been allowed to sit on its own lees for a spell, adding pleasantly different layers of flavour. A very classy version of a sometimes disappointing appellation, and a bargain at £4.
The next choice, a real Alsace Gewartztraminerc", is superb value since El Vino's has knocked almost £1 off its list price. Lots of countries try to make Gewiirtz now. But they all seem to me to lack the heady perfumed, spicy, oily scent of the echt stuff grown in Alsace. Prices have tended to spiral lately, but this is a very reasonable £6.95. I cannot think of a nicer treat for your guests at a summer picnic.
My last white is that most reliable standby, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc'''. New Zealand charges on average more per bottle of wine than any other country, because they produce no plonk at all. This Doctors Creek is nicely aged, and has a fullness and ripeness that, frankly, most French sauvignons at the same price lack.
The reds begin with a surprise. I have been covering the election. After a day hanging round on doorsteps listening to politicians being harangued about broken fences and potholes (forget Europe; the real issues are NHS waiting-lists and parking regulations), I wanted a drink. I'd thrown a cou pie of bottles into the boot, and was a little disappointed to find that the only one left was El Vino's own Cuvee du Patroe. At £4 a bottle it couldn't be anything special. But it was. At first I thought it was some mistake. This was surely a burgundy masquerading as a house red: round, velvety, with a rich yet subtle flavour. So I was not surprised to learn that it is made mainly from Pinot Noir grapes with some Gamay and a dash of Syrah. Elsewhere in France they would call it Passe-Tout-Grains and charge you half as much again. Decant it before serving and your friends will think you are a most generous host.
Rioja's remains extremely popular, which is why some is nasty, mass-produced and almost undrinkable. It's increasingly hard to find a good one at a good price, but El Vino has done it. First-rate value at £6.
Finally, an Australian treat. The Shiraz grape was once the same as the Syrah from the Rhone and, though it has been much transmogrified, it still produces a spicy, zestful wine that's a treat to glug. Hare's Leap') would be excellent with almost any food, and it's nice easy drinking in front of the telly, too, There's a further discount if you buy more than one case.
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