SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,

Narrative of the Voyage of H. M. 8. Semarang, during the Years l843-46 ; employed Surveying the Islands of the Eastern Archipelago ; accompanied by a brief Voca- bulary of the Principal Languages. Published under the Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. By Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., C.B., F.R.A.S., &c. &c., Commander of the Expedition. With Notes on the Natural History of the Islands, by Arthur Adams, Assistant Surgeon, R.N. In two volumes.

ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY, Reeve, Benham, and Reeve- The History of Auricular Confession, Religiously, Morally, and Politically considered, among Ancient and Modern Nations. By Count C. P. De Lesteyrie. Translated under the Author's especial sanction by Charles Cocks, B.L., Professor Brevets of the University of France, translator of Michelet's "Priests, Women, and Families," &c. In two volumes Bentley. MISCELLANEOUS LITERATURE,

The Night-Side of Nature ; or Ghosts and Ghost-Seers. By Catherine Crowe, Au-

thoress of " Susan Hopley," &c. &c. In two volumes Newby.

CAPTAIN BELCHER'S NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF THE SAMARANG.

THESE volumes give the official and authorized account of the surveying voyage of the Semarang in the Eastern Archipelago, the Northern Seas of China, and Japan ; furnishing the information in which Mr. Frank Marryat's book was deficient, and filling up gaps which his slight and sketchy narrative of necessity passed over. Besides much fullereo- graphical and practical information, Captain Belcher's Narrative o the

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Voyage of H. M. S. Samarang contains a more sober view of men and things than the rather artistical and literary pictures of the midship- man. The reader has a much closer and more mature view of the minis- ters and monarchs of those distant regions, with information as to the policy, if it can be called such, of the trading and piratical peoples, than a subordinate officer could attain. " Notes" are appended to the nautical narrative on the natural history of the islands, by Mr. Adams, Assistant-Surgeon to the Expedition ; and a capital map of the Archi- pelago, and charts of the more important places surveyed, accompa- ny the volumes. There is also a pretty copious vocabulary, for practical objects, of ten languages exclusive of Spanish, spoken in those seas, with some remarks on their character and structure.

As far as mere amusing reading is concerned, Mr. Marryat's volume may be found preferable : those who wish to comprehend the scope and result of the voyage, to get a clear view of the character and policy of the principal peoples of those parts, to judge of our prospects of quickly opening an extensive trade with the archipelago, and to form a distinct geographical idea of the region, must possess themselves of Captain Bel- cher's work. Nor will it, amid its instruction, be found unattractive. The minute geographical description occasionally impedes the narrative; but it has novelty of scenery and character, a sprinkling of adventure, and the interest which attends upon that Eastern Aiehipelago, still shrouded in the sort of mystery. that always bangs about the distant unknown; for although Captains Belcher and Keppell with Mr. Brooke have thrown light upon some of the coast and river districts, the interior of the larger islands is nearly a blank.

This Eastern or Indian Archipelago extends from about 100 to 130 degrees of East longitude, and from 10 degrees of South latitude to about 20 degrees of North. On the West and South, it is bounded by the large islands of Sumatra and Java, with about a dozen smaller, of which the beat known is Timor. The Eastern boundary is formed by the Philippine and the Molucca or Spice Islands ; the Malay Peninsula and Siam ran well down from the North along the Western side. The upper or North- ern part of the great basin, shut in or formed by the regions above-men- tioned, consists of the Chinese Sea ; the lower or Southern part is well filled up by Borneo and Celebes ; the Eastern portion of the middle is dotted by Palawan and the numerous islands of the Sooloo Archipelago. This description, however, is merely a general indication ; for there are numerous islands and smaller groups studding the seas within the limits above-mentioned, many of which are incorrectly laid down even as re- gards position, and some even yet unnamed and unknown.

This district was the main scene of Captain Belcher's labours : they were prematurely terminated by his recall at the end of four years, in- stead of the usual seven ; which was unlucky forphy. His survey, however, was extended to the Meia-co-shimas and Loo-ChooIslands, be- tween 24° and 27° North latitude, as well as to the Korean Archipelago, about the parallel of Japan. He also visited the port of Nangasaki in this self-isolating empire; and, unless diplomatic hypocrisy was carried to a most remarkable pitch, Captain Belcher was received with unusual frankness and friendliness, and "formed a connexion" which it is a great pity he had not the opportunity to return and cultivate. The Japanese were acquainted with our doings in China; and they appear well able to draw the distinction between a man-of-war and a trading vessel laden with missionaries and other prohibited goods. They had heard of the Semarang from various quarters ; and they had knowledge enough to comprehend the objects of the survey, and policy enough to grant per- mission to measure the sea—the land, they said, was forbidden to be measured. It is true, no one was permitted to set foot in the city; but an island was assigned to make observations, although Captain Belcher was afterwards begged not to use it : to which, having completed his ob- servations, he consented. By this and similar prudent measures, etiquette was laid aside and a tolerably confidential intercourse established. Hopes were indeed held out, that, if they would wait, permission to land might be obtained from the superior authorities, to whom a report of the Same- rang's arrival had been transmitted ; and an invitation was made for the vessel to return, when, landing or no landing, certain curiosities should be ready. From Captain Belcher's account, the Japanese seem to have more of gentlemanly frankness than the Chinese, and to be better edu- cated, at least in useful things—both Dutch and English are taught in a college at Nangasaki to the youths of the higher classes. A painful re- straint, resulting from despotism and a system of espionage, appears one of the worst features in their character as it was shown to the Expedi- tion. As any really graphic and trustworthy account of this sealed-up empire has not lately reached us, we will draw rather freely on Captain Belcher's pages.

" One very intelligent and active person, who seemed to fill the situation or secretary and linguist to the deputation, acted as the medium of communication with our Chinese interpreter, occasionally in characters, but principally viva ewe. The chief of this deputation, a very prepossessing person, of about fifty-five years of age, and excessively polite, informed me, that although we could not ourselves visit the shore, he had been instructed to prepare a list of any articles which we required, either for the ship or ourselves; and it was fully understood that we were to pay for them, as the prices were named for every article men- tioned. Fresh meat, vegetables, water, and spars, were noted for the ship; and fruit and some minor articles for the use of the officers. There were many articles of ornament which I wished to purchase; but the reply was, If you wait fourteen days, you will have them, as they must be sent for; and ifyon wish any particular articles manufactured for you, (Japan tables, desks, &c.,) they will be ordered, and prepared for you by your return next year; when it is highly probable that you will be permitted to land.' In this I am satisfied they were sincere. • • • " After this, [consenting not to take observations on land,] I soon found a re- laxation of formal etiquette; the ship was thronged with strangers, and inter- course on all sides became unrestrained. The greater part of the chiefs begged that I would write my name, with that of the ship, upon their fans; and the two principal presented me with their duplicates, upon which their names were writ- ten by the interpreter. Upon some pretence, the three minor authorities were sent to examine the ship; leaving the old chief and the interpreter, who, upon the cabin being cleared, asked many indifferent questions, which probably were not con- sidered proper in the presence of others. He informed me that they were perfectly aware of what had taken place between us and the Chinese; but he could not con- ceive how they had been brought to pay the money; promises he could under- stand, but their fulfilment was beyond his belief. When assured that it was in part paid, and if not paid at the time agreed on that we should continue to hold Chuoin and Amoy, he exclaimed, with a deep sigh, England must be very powerful' He then wished to examine the strength of my arm, by feeling the muscles, afterwards exhibiting his; observing, I am a larger man, but I am very weak; the English are all strong though not large.' Two of my boats' crew were sent for, as if to perform some duty in the cabin; one an Englishman, about six feet two, and strong in proportion; the other a Malawi, born at Nova Scotia, about six feet, and immensely powerful: the latter surprised him amazingly; he was also one of the handsomest coloured men I have seen, and a great favourite on board. Our visiter then minutely examined every part of the cabin and furniture, and re- peatedly observed, that if I wished anything made for me, that he would have it executed by the period of my return the ensuing year; and frequently, upon asking if they had articles similar to those noticed by him in my cabin, he replied, wait until the answer from the Emperor arrives, and then it is probable that you will be able to judge for )ourself. This remark was repeatedly made by the other chiefs, and also by the secretary or interpreter when alone with me. 1 am there- fore satisfied that they believed the report,' as they termed it, would be favour- able. Wishing to make some present to the chief, I endeavoured to fix his at- tention upon some object about the cabin; but he evidently avoided the subject. As they seemed to notice the tea which was provided for them, and which was of the finest quality, I took occasion to offer a small ten-pound box, of some which I had purchased for the express purpose. Verbally he accepted it, and it was put into his boat: but after he quitted, another boat was sent back with it, possibly because it had not been conveyed thither with sufficient secrecy; for I witnessed the perfect assent of the secretary himself, before it was sent over the side. It is very diffi- cult to obtain good tea either at Japan or Loo-Choo; and at both places they ac- knowledged that they were unable to obtain from China any of a quality similar to that shown to them, although they bad the same character of tea. • * • "Many questions were put relative to the Dutch on Desima, and as to whether any of their vessels were in port: but all questions relative to them were evaded; nor did we see or hear of any belonging to that factory. To one observation which I made, relative to the permission which we were informed that the Dutch oc- casionally obtained for a day's range in the country, it was answered, simply, 'The English will obtain more if they are admitted to land.' They were extremely inquisitive as to the Frenchmen at Loo-Choo, and distinctly asked if one was a Catholic priest. I understood the question by the gesture; and before my inter- preter expounded it, desired him to say that we neither interfered with the affairs of Dutch or French,—turning the tables in this instance, upon their own evasions

relative to the former. • •

" One of the young students understood English slightly, could pronounce a few English words, and readily caught at every expression, recording it in his note-book. He had proceeded so far as to write several of the names of the officers in English, when it was probably noticed by some of the authorities; and as my readers have, doubtless, frequently noticed a dead silence amongst a collection of noisy sparrows, followed by a sudden chirrup and Sight, without any visible cause, so it happened with these young students; who without any apparent authority, hurried off very suddenly to the boats. I strongly suspect that many of our visiters were persons of high rank in disguise. The greater number wore two swords—denoting gentlemen of consideration; and from the devices or crests (in solid gold) noticed upon the hilts of those worn by one or two rather distingue individuals, and which I was assured were armorial bearings, and duly acknow- ledged amongst themselves, Iwas induced to draw comparisons to similar outlines of the badges on the shoulders of the attendants, who were in their turn desig- nated as the retinue belonging to persons of high rank. Coupling their emblems with those on the swords, and the evident connexion of master and follower, I had travelled rather too fast in my chain of reasoning, forgetting that discovery would very soon leave me deserted; and such was the result of my asking if the person behind my nearest friend was one of his retainers. They did not deny it, but shook their heads; and shortly after they stole away, leaving me with the old chief. As this was our last day, and the boats would continue to come until a late hour with wood, water, and other supplies, the old chief remained until eight o'clock, and on retiring begged that I would consent to receive him at two o'clock in the morn- ing, and converse until daylight,' such being the custom of the coantry.' To this I consented; the chief departing, but leaving the secretary to see everything complete before he quitted. It was clearly understood that the arrangement for payment was to take place immediately the catalogue was found to be correct; but the secretary now declared, ' that it was by an express order of the Govern- ment that everything had been provided free of cost, and that it was the custom of the country. If a Japan ship goes to your country, I am sure you would do the same: the country bears the expense, it does not come out of the purseof any individual. Finally, I cannot act in the matter you wish: if I should even name it, I should be disgraced, perhaps lose my life.' Drawing me to the taffarel, where no one but himself and our interpreter could witness the conversation, he freely ac- quainted me with the friendly disposition of the chiefs and great people of Nan- gasaki towards the English; and their hope, that on our return the High Coun- cillors would consent to our admission,—acknowledging freely that it was within their province entirely, (not the Emperor's,) and that no man could form any conception as to the view they would take. All be knew was, that kindly ex- pressions had transpired amongst the great chiefs about Nangasaki, and they were generally forerunners of good. Relative tothe visit of the chief, he would probably come alone, or be attended by three or four, including himself; and that they wont take tea and sweetmeats. Directing the necessary preparations to be made, I took my nap, rising at two, and waiting with considerable anxiety until daylight. No one came; but the heavy rains which fell probably prevented the visit, which I con- strued into an official act, of seeing all correct up to the moment of sailing. There is one peculiar feature attending this visit. On all former occasions that Japan has been visited by strangers, an edict has been issued forbidding any return- In this instance the promise to revisit Nangasaki was received with apparent satisfaction, and the chiefs (and it extended to the young men of family) expressed the hope that they might be able to show me their houses and in- troduce me to their families. They further requested, that I would bring with me cow-pock matter, sulphate of quinine, ipecacuanha, nue vomitus and other medicines; engaging on their part to have several little commissions executed for me. All these communications were privately made in my cabin, but duly committed to paper. I am therefore far from believing in such consurnmea hypocrisy as to imagine for an instant that any deceit was practised."

The reader will have remarked the high state of civilization and edu- cation indicated by these extracts ; but in fact, much more of knowledge exists throughout those regions than might be supposed. In the Korean Archipelago and the Loo-Choo and Meia-co-shima Islands, the civiliza- tion is Chinese, or of a Chinese character; in the Indian Archipelago, it is Malayan, of which the learning is Mahometan, except in the Spanish dominions, where the Rorniah priests have taught a little—not much. Throughout the greater part of those countries, however, there appears to be a conquering race, which not only retains power and its advantages, but very grievously oppresses the aboriginal race or races, (for some- times there are two, such as were the Britons and Saxons in our own country,) not only by tyrannical modes of government, but by piracy and robbery after the ancient " noble " fashion of Europe. It might, however, have been difficult for a stranger visiting an European noble of the middle ages, to find so mach intelligent curiosity on a rather abstract subject of science as was displayed by the chiefs of the island of Sooloo. Danielle, a sort of " Opposition' nobleman, had offered his seat to the Expedition for their magnetic observations; and thither they went. "The house of Datoo Danielle is situated upon a rising ground, about half a mile inland from the Northern limit of the town; and but for the occurrence of occasional disturbances, which render it necessary for each chief of a clan to make his establishment a fortress, would be termed a neat farm. He is surrounded by his relatives at very short distances from his house; forming together the supe- rior class or aristocraty of the island. Here we experienced not only the utmost kindness and attention from our excellent host and his connexions, but were freed from the visits of impertinent curiosity. Some of the inland or mountain chiefs, noted for their total disregard of all restraint., paid me a visit at the house of the Datoo, and expressed themselves much attached to their old allies the English. They exhibited great anxiety to view our instruments, but evinced some little restlessness when they found that a compliance with their wish would be attended by disarming; such an operation being deemed nearly tantamount to disgrace. The character and weight of Datoo Danielle was, however, deemed sufficient guarantee against any loss of caste; and they were much delighted by the beauty of the instruments, more particularly by Fox's dipping needle, placed beyond the limits of influencing the more delicate magnetometers. Of the uses of this instrument they appeared to comprehend more than I had given them credit for; although I have remarked, as a general feature amongst the better- educated Malaya, as well as Chinese, that they understood more of the properties of the magnet than many educated Europeans. I expected to excite their sur- prise by the reversal of the poles of the dipping needle, and I was assisted by my very intelligent friend Mr. Wyndham as interpreter: but the better- informed of Datoo Danielle's family gave me to believe that they understood it perfectly. Indeed, I was told that the younger brother Udin was an ingenious mechanic, and could take a watch to pieces and clean or repair it. He attached himself par- ticularly to the observing position during the whole period, and seemed to take t delight in the interchange of English and Malayan terms; explaining the ifterences or additions of Biscayan, which renders the Soiig language almost dis- tinct. To Datoo Danielle we were indebMd not only for the flattering hospitality during our temporary occupation of his grounds, but through his exertions were enabled to purchase the best cattle at reasonable prices, in addition to several pet animals, which at this and our previous visit he as well as his mother had been kind enough to send as presents. His fine figure, mild countenance, as well as manly independent bearing, obtained for him a most marked distinction amongst his own community. He was evidently considered by the Sultan and his wily Prime Minister (Datoo Mulak) as a man neither to be despised nor trifled with. With us he was an especial favourite; and I am sure that no one could wish greater prosperity to the Sooloo nation than the elevation of this chief to the go- vernment, either as Sultan or Prime Minister."

Many similar sketches of manners and character tempt us, but they must be passed over for a more practical matter—the prospects of trade with the countries in question. On that head Captain Belcher does not speak so hopefully as other writers have done, or as the capability of the countries, from their climate and position, as well as from the variety and richness of their productions, would seem to warrant. However, his rea- sons are specific.

"I have looked very closely into the general habits and transactions of the accessible tribes, and their sources of trade in Borneo Sooloo, and Singapore; and I have it from personal observation, as well as the best European authority, that no commerce can be carried on in these regions without the intervention of the Arab or Malay, unless the European agent visits or resides, and personally trans- acts the business, on the spot. I have before alluded to Mr. Wyndham, resident at Sooloo: from many conversations with that gentleman, who is an individual coming strictly within my meaning, I have reason to know that no profitable trade can be pursued where the intervention of a Malay occurs. I was thoroughly acquainted with the value of the goods lent by him on credit, as well as the returns for them; and in the offers made to use by the Sultan of Gunung Taboor, begging me to induce English merchants to reside at Gunung Taboor. and trade, I ascertained, that he was a loser of nearly three hundred per cent by trusting to his agent, Si Dawut. I had occasion also to deal with the Bugia traders, who endeavoured to monopolize the whole trade of Borneo; and I found, by reference to their transactions with the Sultan of Balungan, as well as at Gunung Taboor, that their profits were enormous —charging for the quantity of rice valued at about one dollar at Sooloo, about arty dollars here. [Balambangan, Northern point of Borneo.] With regard to handkerchiefs, valued at two dollars Sooloo, we could not make a comparison, as those from Celebes passed through Dutch chan- nels; but, the intrinsic value at which the Sultan reckoned them was ten dollars each, being five hundred per cent on the Manila prices, and if exchanged for bird's-nests, sometimes reaching the value of twenty. "These remarks are intended to apply chiefly to the supposed sources of trade arising from Maluda Bay with Balambangan. Of the value of this trade I am informed that nothing but camphor-barns, seed-pearls, shells, tripang, and a small quantity of tortoise-shell, may be expected from this source; and this not offering sufficient profit to an Arab merchant to repeat the venture at the risk of his property as well as life. We may safely inquire, then, would an English trader, differing so totally in religion, enter these haunts of what are designated, at the present day, pirate dens,' to seek for goods where one of their own tribe is scarcely safe? It is only necessary to turn our attention to the river Betel Have the Dutch or English, after repeated attempts for a series of years, sue- ceeded in opening trade, by the intervention of Ewith the ruling powers in that river? It is monopolized by the Bugle traders of Celebes; and so great is their influence there, that it is supposed to be their object to exclude even their own allies the Dutch." • ' ' " The trading interests of Borneo, or the probabilities of our commerce in- creasing in these regions to the amount contemplated by some over-sanguine advocates, requires to be guarded against. From the year 1843 to the present time, I have made it my study, as it was my duty, to collect and weigh every minute circumstance which could bear upon this most important subject; nor will I yield to any one in feeling of deep interest for the success of our new posi- tion. At Singapore, as well as at Hong-kong, Manila, and Sooloo some of my readers will understand the assertion I make, 'that I not only used every effort to open the trade direct with Gunung Taboor, Tambiaan, and Kabatuan; but at my persuasion, two persons have made the attempt ': others met me with the observation, ' All which you state is very true, and the prices are favourable in the highesedegree; but you cannot warrant half a cargo, even for a small schooner.' At Ganung Taboor the Sultan bound himself to amply a cargo for one vessel filling up with rattans, cassia bark, Sze. but more he could not promise; as the collection of one year. At Kabatuan, I was informed, that beyond about thirty canoes present, the same quantity of pepper might be added, but no more. At Kimanis, it was probable that pepper, wax, camphor, and bird's-nests, would afford twenty canoe loads. All these proceeds would amount, possibly, to ten tons; stripping the coast for the season. Treating of Maluda Bay, and the sources of trade to be derived from that region, I have observed, p. 124, that the establishment of a British port or colony on any part of the Northern shores of Borneo will not, I suspect, induce any of the native authorities to send there for sale.' This remark is intended to apply to cargoes or quantities. The small traders will, as remarked to me by Mr. Brooke, creep alongshore, and find their way to the best market. But until the colony is firmly settled, and piracy an- nihilated on the range of coast by which trade must pass, this state of affairs will be slow of arriving; and when it does, still, until the habits of the inland tribes become settled, and they plant for and send to your market, the same scantiness of tonnage must prevaiL" From this it follows that two things are needed,—safety on the seas ; and regular government, or at least security for property. The latter can only be obtained by conquest : the piratical expeditions may be very much impedid if not destroyed by cruisers ; and there seems no reason why some of the vessels now wasting time and lives in Western Africa should not be more usefully employed in the East. An active squadron would harass and annoy the pirates ; but it must be several years before they could' be put down, as their strongholds cannot all be destroyed. Some of the lesser nests, indeed, would be a task of diffi- culty, from the nature of the approaches and of the country : the French squadron, one of whose boats had been fired into, suffered greatly in forcing their way to one of these places, and then the pirates vanished in the jungle. The strongest and most important post of all is under the nominal dominion of Spain; and the Dons would never suffer an invasion of their territory, for strangers to do what Spaniards cannot.