SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
Eccentric rich uncle
Auberon Waugh
THIS OFFER, which is simplified by the inclusion of three old favourites in the Combe de Grinou(1), the Sours Rose(3) and the Domaine de Saissac(5), is made much more complicated by a little joke of Adam Brett-Smith, the managing director of Cor- ney & Barrow. Brett-Smith, of course, is chiefly renowned throughout the civilised world for his invention of the Brett-Smith Indulgence, by which Spectator readers can knock 50 pence off the already reduced price of every bottle on two cases or more in the London area, three cases or more outside London. On this occasion he became wildly excited by the idea that I should offer the virtually unknown (in this country) Spanish wine which features as No. 7 on the order form. It is indeed a most remarkable wine, but I had to tell him there could be no question of anyone ordering a case of unknown wine at the horrible price of £15.65 the bottle, however much it had been reduced, and even with the famous Indulgence* reducing it to £15.15. More- over, if I included it in the ordinary mixed case, the two bottles would upset its price enough to make it unattractive. The solu- tion has been to have two mixed cases, denying the plutocrats a chance at the Sais- sac, which they probably already know.
Now for the wines. The Combe de Gri- nou(1) needs no introduction. Its 1997 is even better than the 1996, explosive on the palate and utterly delicious at £5.20 (£4.70 reduced*). Those who have not yet discov- ered this wonderful summer wine should use this opportunity. Everybody loves it.
I keep swearing I will never offer another white burgundy because the quality so sel- dom matches the price, but this Macon Solutre(2), which started at £7.29 before set- tling at £6.60 (£6.10 reduced*), is extraordi- narily cheap because it has never touched oak. It is all pure fruit, and much the better for it: a lean, beautiful wine with just a touch of cream and a wonderful acidity on the finish. I rather fell in love with it.
Next our old friend the Château de Sours Rosé (3), which has been described as the best rosé in the world. The 1997 turns out as a fat and spicy wine at 12.5 per cent, the aperitif to end all aperitifs. Brett-Smith rolled his eyes horribly when asked to reduce it from £6.98 to £5.23 (£4.73 when further reduced*). This final allocation is exclusive to Corney & Barrow and there are only 200 cases left, so buyers might be well advised to move fast.
Among the reds, the Domaine du Puget Merlot(4) is a new discovery. Very merlot in its generosity, it is also bright, clean, thor- oughly attractive and, at £4.41 (£3.91 reduced*), it is 34 pence cheaper than the Domaine de Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 1996(5) at £4.75 (£4.25*). I have great stocks of the Saissac and never cease to be sur-
prised by how good it is whenever I return to them. Perhaps it is slightly smoother and more conventional than the merlot, but they are both very high-class indeed for daily drinking.
Next an exciting, slightly violent wine from Stellenbosch(6). Aggressively upper-class in its aromatic cabernet sauvignon taste and alarmingly assertive, it is nevertheless highly enjoyable and different. One should keep some in the cellar for certain moods, certain occasions. At £6.29 (£5.79*) it is very much
in demand among the smart set.
. Finally, Mr Brett-Smith's little joke. Those who were sensible enough to order it — I bought five cases — will remember the excellent 1994 La Granja Monasterio from the Ribera del Duero which I offered last November from Corney & Barrow at £7.52 (£7.02*). That is now finished. This wine, the Hacienda Monasterio 1995(y), at more than twice the price, is its infinitely grander and richer uncle. It is most extraordinary and quite ravishing, as it should be at the price — a lovely, sweet, rich extracted smell with a touch of toffees, an unbelievably huge and creamy taste — rich, deep and seductive. All serious wine-drinkers should taste it. I am brooding about whether to buy a case.
The mixed cases work out at £5.41 the bottle for normal people, £7.23 for eccentrics. I honestly think the Hacienda should be tried.
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