THE VOYAGE OF THE " NOVARA."*
THE expedition of which this volume is a narrative, so far, at least, as about half the voyage is concerned, was originated by the Arch- duke Ferdinand Maximilian, commander-in-chief of the Austrian navy, whose warm interest in the naval service of his country amounts to something more than that of holdinf, the imperial command. The Archduke Maximilian has shown by holding recent visit to our great dockyards and arsenals that he is professionally interested in naval matters—a subject, indeed, which at the present moment, in one direction or another, is occupying half the scientific heads of Europe —and beyond being " the enlightened friend of science and liberty," as Dr. Scherzer phrases it, we can imagine that he is naturally ambi- tious that the maritime position and reputation of Austria should be raised under his auspices. A navy of two line-of-battle ships, six frigates, and a crowd of small vessels, confined to cruising in the Adriatic, is not a very favourable condition for encouraging the true sailor spirit ; neither can seamanship be tested as well in these narrow seas as upon the broad Atlantic ; hence the sound policy of undertaking this voyage round the world.
The recognition of the Austrian flag in remote quarters of the globe, the opening of new channels for the outlet of the natural pro- ducts and manufactured goods, the promotion of the industrial, com- mercial, and maritime interests of the empire, were other important advantages to the State which the expedition had in view. But, be- sides these and the professional motives of the expedition, it was designed for certain scientific purposes, and included, as a scientific commission, a staff of geologists, botanists, zoologists, with an ethnographer in Dr. Scherzer, and an artist. The frigate, indeed, was specially fitted up with cabins for the naturalists, having every arrange- ment for preserving and storing the specimens collected. To make the expedition complete, the great Alexander Von Humboldt was in- vited by the Archduke to state to the scientific commission some of the principal points for investigation throughout the voyage. The paper containing the physical and geognostic suggestions of the veteran author of "Cosmos" precedes the narrative, and forms a most interesting part of the book. Humboldt, then verging on a life of a century, speaks of just "jotting down some hasty notes," without presuming to give such instructions as, conjointly with Arago, lie gave for the French 'expedition, or for the Antarctic voyage of Sir James Ross in 1840-43. But these hints extend to thirty pages, and furnish an epitome of all that is known and that is being discovered of the different currents and temperature of the ocean, of the magnetic currents and their curves, of the volcanic tracks with their active and extinct craters, and other geological questions. He points out where the heights of mountains require to be corrected and verified, and with equal familiarity directs attention to the atmospheric variations, and to the sky, where he particularly im- presses upon the observers the importance of keeping an exact re- gister of the intensity of blackness in the " coal bags," when the smallest stars around them are still visible to the naked eye. The volcanoes are all enumerated and referred to with the utmost precision; so many on the great continents, so many on islands, and the vol- canic region where the fused elements of our earth are most perma- nently in communication with the atmosphere, is indicated as an oblique track stretching from S.E. to N. W. in the more westerly part of the Pacific, between 75 degs. W. and 125 degs. E. of Paris, and between 47 degs. S and 66 degs. N. No writer or traveller of the least eminence seems ever to have escaped the watchful eye of this student of the universe ; all that they have done is referred to with a precision and accuracy that are surprising. Indeed, this contribu- tion to the work is one of its most valuable features, and one addi- tionally interesting as displaying the most remarkable pertinacity of the scientific intellect and a wonderful retention of the philosophic tone of mind, and that, too, without loss of those gentler qualities more easily blunted by age. " I remember," says Humboldt, giving his last blessing to the Novara expedition, " not without emotion and with very mingled feelings, that joyous period of my life when, fifty-eight years ago, in the beautiful gardens of Selionbrunn, preparing myself for a long journey, I was enjoying with grateful mind the friendly kindness a the venerable Jacquin and Peter Frank."
After reading Humboldt's comprehensive suggestions, the narra- tive of Dr. Schemer appears frequently wanting in information upon • Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe, by the Austrian Frigate " Novara,' undertaken by order of the Imperial Government in 185748-59. By Dr. Karl Schermer. Vol. I. Saunders, Otley, and Co. These are to be furnished, the octor tells us, in the special report of the expedition, in which they will, no doubt, be dwelt upon in the true exhaustive style of the German sevens. Still, we cannot help wishing that at least the chief results had been appended to the nar- rative, in however brief a form. We meet with only one of Hum- boldt's inquiries answered, and that is as to whether the island of Amsterdam, in the Southern Indian Ocean, is an active volcano or not. Humboldt doubted it, but merely related that it had been seen burning. The voyagers landed here and saw no volcano ; but on leaving it, as they got out to sea, it began to blaze and throw out vast clouds of smoke; it was then remembered that some lucifer matches had been let fall and set fire to the dry grass, and thus caused the apparent eruption. A similar accident no doubt it was that de- ceived former travellers who saw the island, but had not attempted to land upon its precipitous and rocky shores. The Novara sailed on the 30th of April, 1857, in company with a corvette, the Caroline. The crew contained so many novices, that long before they got through the Mediterranean a good many pale faces seemed to say that terra firma was more the natural element of the Austrians. Still more boisterous weather met them off the Spanish coast, and afforded abundant opportunity to the young crew of learning the use of their sea legs. It must be rather amusing to a sailor of the English or Yankee stamp, to see how the doctor speaks of the rude merchantmen, who will keep bearing down close upon the imperial frigate, " acting upon the most peculiar and ab- normal principles of navigation," and frightening the inexperienced with the prospect of what the doctor calls "an uupleasant collision." He particularly complains of the Americans, on account of their national vanity for carrying on, and the Dutch for their phlegmatic indifference. On one occasion a Yankee clipper, the Bunker's Hill, of Boston, had the audacity to cross the Novara's bows, and ask for the latitude and longitude, a piece of information which the Austrians declined to give until she showed her colours. And this the Yankee was too saucy to do, even when a blank gun was fired towards her : it was not till a shot was sent over her quarter that the stars and stripes was run up. Then, according to sea etiquette, the Novara answered their question. Dr. Scherzer is rather rod errant at such a breach of nautical good manners; but we suspect there is a good deal of this sort of sailors' chaff to be met with on the blue water. On the other hand, it is evidently a great source of satisfaction to Dr. Scherzer to tell the number of guns with which the Novara was saluted by the ships and forts of all the powers, wher- ever she showed the imperial colours. At Gibraltar, which Dr. Scherzer speaks of as " this gun-studded, colossal sentinel of that vigilantly prudent, energetic, and jealous power, which is so constantly seeking to extend her rule wherever her own interests are concerned, or where she thinks it advisable to make herself re- spected by other nations," the Austrian expedition received every possible attention, an officer of engineers being attached to the Novara for the time, and Government workmen employed in erecting huts for the use of the scientific observers. Each individual of the frigate's staff was provided with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased. It happened that the Queen's birthday was celebrated while they were there, and the visitors were not a little astonished at the " lightnings and thunders which issued from all the crevices and embrasures, and the huge volumes of smoke, with a subterraneous rumbling, which gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano." Dr7Scherzer remarks, however, that even Armstrong guns would not entirely command the passage of the Straits, which is twelve and a half miles wide, and therefore the English fleet must be relied on. He alludes quite gravely to the mythical monkeys which are said to sit on the highest peaks when the cast wind blows, and have been said to come from the African coast by a submarine passage, and conjectures these may be remnants of the race of the Sixtus ecaudatus. The rigid discipline that keeps the gates of the Old Mole inexorably shut at certain hours, struck the doctor as something comic, especially in the solemn proceedings of the corporal and guard with the keys. The people have a saying that "There is only one thing more difficult than to get out of the town at night, and that is to get ix." English commerce has a rival at Gibraltar for the Barbary and Morocco trade in sugar, and Dr. Scherzer thinks it might have in many other articles. It appears that Belgian sugar, from its superior quality and cheapness, has driven all others out of the market. In hardware, cutlery, nails, screws, earthenware, and glass also, Belgium supplies this market, though the goods are represented as German.
It was not to be expected that in this narrative much which is par- ticularly new to readers of English voyages would be found to relate, especially when the ship only touched at the various places, and afforded only the opportunity of brief trips into the country to see the nearest remarkable sights. But Dr. Scherzer was not deceived in expecting that his account would be acceptable to English readers. Whenever an intelligent and well-informed traveller tells what he saw, he is seldom uninteresting; he may never attempt that kind of description which has got the apt name of " ngg," but without this somewhat treacherous faculty, he may make us feel that he is a more reliable relator and a sounder observer. Thus, if Dr. Seherzer describes the curious phenomenon of the " fats moraana," or "mirage," seen in the Mediterranean, he explainsit scientifically, not fancifully. He tells us how it is caused by two currents of vapour differing in density, the one layer becoming condensed either upon or below the other, and forming a sufficiently distinct surface to act as a mirror. At sea the cold stratum is lowest, and objects are reflected inversely, but the reverse is the case in the mirage of the desert.
distortions, and these frequently joining with the real objects, give those singular and mysterious appearances which have often been described by travellers. The name of "fate morgana" is taken, the doctor thinks, from the Breton mor, sea, and gas, a fine woman, meaning " sea-woman," or our "mermaid." Perhaps this offers an
explanation of the appellation "morganatic wife," for such a con_ nexion as Macphail of Colonsay, in the old ballad, formed with the mermaid.
As the Novara made for Madeira the Gulf Stream was en- countered, and bottles were duly launched into it, very few of which, however, were ever heard of again. We have a good ac- count of this volcanic island, which, in shape, Dr. Scherzer de- scribes as exactly what Columbus showed Queen Isabella Jamaica was, when he crumpled a piece of paper in his hand and placed it on the table before her Majesty. The climate of Madeira has been changed from a moist one to a very dry one by the extensive de- struction of trees caused by the first settlers in the fifteenth century burning them. When first discovered, the river Socorridos was deep enough to float timber to the sea, but now it is almost dried up. The land is now dependent on irrigation by numerous walled conduits
(levadas), and the right to lase them is most strictly preserved and paid for by taxes. The water is served out by an appointed person,
who stands with an hour-glass like Saturn, and diverts the stream to the land of the next proprietor after the allotted time has expired. The sugar-cane is fast supplanting the vine since the disease has
blighted the vineyards, and Dr. Seherzer considers the land and climate very favourable to cotton, though none has been tried. The population has not yet recovered from the losses by cholera in 1856, when more than seven thousand fell victims. The reduction of ozone in the air at this time was mentioned by the local physicians to have been from seven to two, and the same meteorological fact was observed at Rio when the cholera devastated that city; in the latter instance the quantity of ozone was found to increase as the cholera abated. Foundlings are, however, a very abundant crop at Funchal, no fewer than eight hundred and thirty-nine in one year, and the authorities are compelled to adopt a singular expedient to prevent deception in giving out board money for these infants : every child is marked with a piece of tape round the neck, which is fastened and stamped by a leaden seal. At Rio, the expedition was accompanied to the peak of the Corco- vado by a veteran Brazilian naturalist, who had attended with Hum- boldt the lectures of Cuvier, and was a friend of M. A. de St. Hilaire. The Germins were found to occupy the best position in Rio, and the policy of the government now is to encourage immigration of Euro- peans, notwithstanding the outcry made against them by the Bra- zilians, who, Dr. Scherzer says, are full of the most overweening conceit. It is seen that though the Europeans make fortunes, they cannot do this without conferring immense benefits upon the inhabit- ants. Beasts of burden are of such importance with the Brazilians, that the Government are introducing the dromedary, and with it of necessity its food, the date-palm. These creatures will carry about 7001bs. under deprivations that kill the horses and mules of the country. The necessity of a settled industrious population is urgent in Brazil. Slave labour fails, although there are many free negroes, and slaves are treated with humanity; the laziness of both masters and negroes prevents all the full benefits of a free and industrious community. Chinese coolies have been imported, but they dwindled away under the climate, and the Government has now agents in all parts of Europe seeking for emigrants for this fine country so rich and prodigal of Nature's bounties. A system prevails, however, in Brazil called the Pareeria, which effectually stays 'the tide of emi- gration. By this system, very poor emigrants are sought out and carried into the country, being maintained at the expense of the speculator. They have then to work until this money is redeemed, and then they may continue to work, taking half the profits of their labour. In this way it is next to impossible that they can ever be- come proprietors, as the land is kept in the bands of a planting aris- tocracy. At the Cape of Good Hope, everything they saw delighted them and impressed them deeply with the fairness and wisdom of the English system of colonizing. The Cape, Dr. Scherzer says, offers a more advantageous field to thq emigrant than any country in the world. The Germans of the British legion formed for the Crimea were found- to be thriving prosperously under General Stuttersheim. In the Hottentot schools it astonished the travellers to see how these people were learning English—Hottentots, Caffres, and Negroes speaking in English and of England with esteem and affection, singing Mendelssohn's songs in chorus, and one Mestizo lad playing well on the organ, the violin, and the violoncello. With a salute from the Boscawen while the respective national anthems were played by the bands of the two ships, the Novara sailed for the islands St. Paul and Amsterdam, trying in their way their apparatus for deep- sea soundings, which unfortunately brake in 6170 fathoms without reaching the bottom. At St. Paul they verified Lord Macartney's story of catching a fish and cooking it at the same time in the hot springs. They left a record of their visit on the island, arid made for Ceylon, arriving at Point de Galle on the 8th of January, where they met the Shannon. Here an ascent of Adam's Peak and the pearl fisheries are described, with which, however, we are all tolerably Bugler. At Madras, the expedition was feted by all the authorities, and espe- cially by the Madras Club, whose hospitality drew out the elaborate praises of the English and everything English from the scientific members of the expedition. The Novara next sailed for the Nicobar Isles and eastward through the Straits of Malacca, to China, AO-.
tralia, New Zealand, Valparaiso, and round Cape Horn home again to Trieste. The narrative of this part of the voyage is to form the second volume. Dr. Scherzer has performed his task very ably; his narrative is never dull, and generally very agreeable and instructive reading, with abundance of reliable information. The woodcuts are very aoeeptable little helps to the descriptions, and the maps are es- pecially good, showing the exact course of the ship each day, so that with the scientific reports the whole work will undoubtedly be a valuable contribution to the nautical archives of Austria.
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