28 OCTOBER 2006, Page 87

Q. When my husband and I go out to dinner

in our neck of the Dorset woods, our friends invariably give us champagne before we sit down. We feel when reciprocating hospitality we should do the same but we are on lower incomes than most of our friends and simply cannot afford an extra £40 for two bottles for an average eight to ten guests. Can you recommend an acceptable champagne substitute? Is there such a thing?

Name withheld, Blandford A. Why not serve a delicious yet little known wine from just outside the champagne region which, although produced in exactly the same way, cannot be called champagne. This blanc de blancs called Varichon and Clerc is priced at a reasonable £7.99 from Newbridge Fine Wines of Bath (01225) 480996.