PARIS IN 1859 — NOTES FOR VISITORS.

No. I. QIIAItTER OF TEE MADELEINE AND CHAVOStE D'ANTIN.

Rue de la Maass& D'.datin.

La Chains& d'Antin being not only the name given to an important quarter of the city of Paris, but used for designing a certain class of its population, this fine street claims precedence in our short review of this part of the capital. Not that it derives much interest from its anti- quity, for it was only in 1720, it was first opened, by order of "La Prevdti " of Paris, but that in little more than a century it has become the very heart and centre of the town.

Where well-built houses and splendid shops flourish now' private re- sidences of mysterious appearance, dark and gloomy by day, but brilliant and gay by night, existed in the time of the last of France's too gallant monarchs—the dissolute and frivolous Louis the Fifteenth. The quar- ter was much frequented i by gay and dissipated noblemen' whose child- ren were destined to expiate n exile, and on the scaffold, the levity and crimes of their parents. Gallantry, however, has long since been re- placed by speculation, arid the mysterious intrigues of "grands seigneurs" and "belles dames" by the noisy hum of tradesmen, bankers, stock- brokers, and railway contractors. The god Mammon now reigns almost exclusively where Venus held her sway in days of yore.

After having been called Rue Chaussee Guillox, and Rue do Motel Dieu, and later, Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, it received, in 1791, the

name of Rue Mirabeau, from the people, in honour of the great orator, whose powerful eloquence first shook the throne of the Bourbons, and who had just ended his brilliant but equivocal career in this quarter of the city. In 1793 when the once popular name of Mirabeau became pro- scribed, and his remains were taken from the Pantheon the street, by a decree of the Convention' was called Rue du Mont Blanc ; and when the Bourbons returned in 1851, it was once more changed for the one it bears today. It was, however, only during the first Empire, when war ab- sorbed everything, gallantry included, that the change we allude to be- gan to operate ; and that the region lost all traces of its former splendour, to become what it now is, the centre of commercial operations. In this very place, where so late as the reign of Louis the Fourteenth, a sportsman might have shot a snipe or a wild duck, every nook visible and invisible is occupied by busy tradesmen, active speculators, and shop- keepers of every rank and denomination, from the humble epicier " to the wealthy jeweller. With notaries, doctors, attorneys and lawyers, without number, and an abundant supply of milliners, tailors, bath- keepers, &e. this epitome of Paris is a town in itself, and one in which even a " millionnaira" could find not only every necessary and luxury of life, but the produce of every land from "Indus to the Pole." After this short retrospective glance at the origin and destiny of this important street, we must give the reader a little information on its pre- sent state, which if not interesting may we hope prove useful. Extend- ing from the Boulevard des Italians, to the Rue St. Lazare, it contains seventy number, or houses ; the odd numbers being all on the left hand, proceeding from the Boulevard, and the even numbers on the other side. We begin with the left hand—

The house No. 1, forming the angle of the Boulevard, is now occupied by a respectable pharmacien, and by an excellent carpet-warehouse. The name of the druggist is celebrated in literature for the admirable critic whom we have lost, Gustave Planche, was the son of the late proprietor.

On the site where this splendid house is raised, once stood the gorgeous palace of the great danseuse Mademoiselle Grimaud. " La Temple de Terp- Eachore " as it was then called, had a private theatre attached to it, capable of containing 500 spectators. The 600 livres a year she received on her dé- but at the opera, must have increased and multiplied in marvellous pro- portions to enable her to build such a sumptuous residence.

No. 3. "Au vieux Paris." Relics of past times from the precious old Sevres china that once graced a Royal table, down to the swords that won or lost empires, will be found in this repository of antiquities.

No. 9. "Les Magasins de la Chaussee d'Antin." This splendid] estab- lishment, well stocked with every article of dress for the fair sex, and a few for their not better halves, is highly praised by the best judges in the world, lea bonnes femmes de menage. The prices are moderate, and the goods, if not always of the most exquisite and recherche kind, are said to possess what Mrs. Primrose esteems so much, "the qualities that wear well." Silks and muslins deposed by the changing caprice of fashion, are constantly of- fered for sale at reduced prices. The rich banker, Perregaux, formerly lived in this house. Here it was when on passing through the court-yard, that he observed young Lafitte, whose services he had just declined, stoop to take up a pin ; and inferring from that incident his economy and order, he took him into his banking firm. Here it was, too, that Lafitte himself became in his turn le Roe de la Finance.

No. 13. The dwelling-house and offices of the great bankers—Mallet Freres.

No. 15. Cabasson's long-established and respectable stationery warehouse. Since the days of is terreur Republicans Royalists, Bonapartist; of the two empires, have been supplied with writing materials from this establish- ment. What good and evil has been done with them, and how many an important event they have decided and chronicled since 1791! "No. 19. " Mama Toy." A most respectable china establishment, greatly in repute and well worthy of its reputation. No. 23. Embroidery, lingerie, &c. A house in favour among Parisian ladies, and said to be less expensive than such establishments are in general.

No. 49. Salle St. Cecile concert-rooms, and riding-school now under re- pair. Besides the houses mentioned above, there are at this side of the street several other useful establishments, which we shall notice before proceeding to another quarter of the city. The left side of the Rue de la Chaussee d'A.ntin belongs to the first " arrondissement " ; the right, which we will now examine, belongs to the second.

No. 2. Forming the angle with the Boulevard des Italians. Ripon, "Glacier Cafe Restaurant," known under the name of Cafe Foy. This justly celebrated house, embracing several branches of the culinary art, is second to no other in the capital, and is frequented by the very- elite of Parisian society. The chef de cuisine is an artist of rare merit, and suc- ceeds in the difficult task of making "le quart d'heure de Rabelais" less disagreeable than it generally is. The choice of wines is of the very best, and they have it is said, escaped from the sin of adulteration, now so common in Paris. The national beverage, cafe noir, is in great repute, and the choice of liqueurs is unrivalled. 38. "Au Cypres." Although we sincerely hope our readers may never have occasion to visit this " maison de dean," still we must not omit re- commending it, as one of the first of the kind in the city. 62. "Au Siege de Corinthe." This large and old-established house con- tains a most complete assortment of what is called in England soft goods. The employes are remarkably polite and complaisant, and the visitor is sure to find, without delay or over pressing, everything he asks for. Silks, merinos, and poplins are said to be not only verygood, but what in these extravagant times is very important, moderate in price. Punctuality, rather a rare quality in Parisian tradesmen, is the rule in this well-governed and important house. 64. Silks, cloaks, &c. &c. manufactory at Lyons. This house, founded only a few years ago, is progressing rapidly, and is said to be deserving of its good fortune. 70. "Au Cardinal Pesch." Another large and important house, con- taining ey article of dress for the artisan as well as for the bourgeois ; small profit and a large trade being evidently the object of the proprietors. The warerooms are never empty. This ouse was once the residence of the celebrated uncle to Napoleon the First, Cardinal Fesch, who, when raised to the purple, opposed and dis- obeyed his aspiring relative.

To conclude, it may be well to say that La Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin is within five minutes' walk of the navre, Dieppe, Cherbourg, Versailles, and St. Germain terminus, at the same distance from the Opera, and within ten minutea' walk of the Palais Royal and the Tuileries. J. P. L.

[Hotels, boarding-houses, &c. are reserved for a special article.] [Hotels, boarding-houses, &c. are reserved for a special article.]