THE BOOK OF BEER, By Andrew Campbel l ' (Dribson, 15s.) 'WINE
drinkers write about it : beer drinkers drink. There is no end to books about wine' by contrast to a dearth of readable or reliable books on beer, though beer has been the, national beverage since the Norman Congas' and before. Andrew Campbell has 110// attempted to give beer some of its due; and Ins The Book of Beer is a well-written, well' informed contribution to a subject that as Ye' lacks an authoritative and comprehensive study. It describes the brewing process Uttar gibly; gives a useful guide to varieties' strengths, and characteristics; and reports °I/ certain breweries and public houses.
A dedicated enthusiast, Mr. Campbell takes his subject seriously; apart from wide reading; his marathon field-work took him to
several thousand public houses, though he modestly admits that he visited some of them before Ills book was even planned. He also treats his sub- ject with respect, avoiding the inane archness that he properly deplores in earlier works.
A return to seventeenth-century habits of beer-drinking at meals, he considers, would be beneficial alike to the nation's health and to the balance of trade; for there are few occa- sions when the right type of beer, properly served, is not appropriate. For example, he vigorously defends the claims of beer against those of the starchy and greasy mess that so often constitutes the English breakfast— though he does not underestimate the en- trenched strength of the manufacturers of cereals and porridge. Useful chapters deal with beer not only as an accompaniment of food, but also as an ingredient of dishes.
Mr. Campbell reflects with some indigna- tion on the absurdities of the licensing laws which, aided by the efforts of publicans, often discourage the intelligent choice and leisured consumption of beer. He refrains, unfortu- nately, from discussing the merits and impli- cations of the 'tied house' system, nor does he reveal if his researches support the belief that some English breweries, as extensive owners of public houses, are as actively involved in the retail distribution of beer as in its production.
PATRICK LYNCH
Previous page
