BOOKS.

SEYMOUR'S RUSSIA. ON THE BLACK SEA AND SEA OF AZOF.* THE attention which the present struggle has directed towards the Crimea and its vicinity has been a means of showing of how little value are common travels when read for the purpose of ob- taining specific practical information. Description that can be turned to a particular purpose must be the result of a special pur- suit in the traveller,—as Koch in botany or geology ; General Mackenzie for military topography, at least in Roumelia. Some of the various travels in Russia that we have read of late contain personal adventures and striking pictures ; but those really give little more available knowledge for men visiting the region on military affairs, than would the same kind of artistical picture by a landscape-painter. Their general opinions look more inform- ing; and they would be so if they were accurate. Unluckily, they have seldom stood the test of experiment. The common sol- diery of Russia, apart from the Guards, were described as poor, half-starved, miserable men, and the greater number of their offi- cers corrupt, and inferior to their position. Yet on every occasion where they have been tested against French and English troops, the generals and scientific corps have displayed at least equal skill to those of the Allies ; the regimental officers have done their duty; the men have shown a dogged courage, and great steadi- ness in danger and defeat; nor, according to many letters, do they seem to have presented that half-fed, stunted, wretched appear- ance, they were described as exhibiting when not under the Em- peror's immediate eye. Mr. Seymour's Russia on the Black. Sea and Sea of Azof is not exactly a book of travels, though an account of the author's own journeying and actual observations is interwoven with his deduced descriptions. It is a geographical, historical, sta- tistical, and commercial compilation, drawn from various author- ities; the best author for any particular district or subject being taken as a guide; information derived from other writers being likewise added; while the experience of Mr. Seymour, ac- quired during personal observation in 1844 and 1846, is used to test, animate, and enlarge the materials he draws from other sources. The reader thus obtains the pith of the floating informa- tion connected with the countries adjacent to the Black Sea and the Sea of Azoff, with the great advantage of its being com- piled in reference to the existing war. Still the difficulty of arriving at perfectly correct information is visible. In a pictur- esque account of the Steppes, which may be said to extend North- wards from Simpheropol across the Crimea far into Russia, while they begin from about the Dniester and stretch Eastward to Asia, Mr. Seymour thus describes them after rain in fine weather, in winter, and in spring. "I will now say a few words about the road between Pereeop and Odessa, and the principal towns through which it passes. The whole distance is 352 miles • and there are post-horses along the road, which runs entirely through the Steppes. Road, however, properly speaking, there is none ; for even out- side the gates of Odessa, the traveller follows the track of those that have preceded him, and in dry weather bowls rapidly along, but is arrested by the slightest fall of rain. I left Odessa, in the year 1843, in the commence- ment of August, in a light britska drawn by three horses; and in consequence of a slight shower of rain in the morning, I was stopped half-way in the rich loam of the Steppes, and was obliged to pass the night there, and send on to the next station for three fresh horses to pull my carriage through the heavy ground. " During the winter the ground is covered with snow, which at times lies several feet deep. Unimpeded by mountains, forests, or rising ground, the winds from the North-east, passing over many hundred miles of frozen ground, blow with resistless violence, and often uninterruptedly for several weeks. When the frost is severe and the snow in a dry powdery state, the wind drifts it about and obscures the air. These snow-storms are called by the inhabitants metel' or hours,' and have often proved fatal to the half,frozen, blinded, and bewildered traveller, who, having lost his way, is wandering over the dreary icy steppes in search of a place of refuge. De- tached houses and whole villages are sometimes buried by the drifting snow, through.which the inmates are obliged to cut their way. At times the tra- veller looks in vain for the solitary post-house at which he is always anxious to arrive, and learns only that he has reached his temporary resting-place by a slight rise in the snow, and by his sledge being overturned into a hole, through which he creeps down into the snug cottage, which is sometimes thus buried for several weeks. When the wind blows with violence and the snow is drifted about in eddies, the storm has a singularly bewildering and stunning effect. The inhabitants themselves lose their way; and the herds of horses, cattle, and sheep, that happen to be surprised by it, become seized with a panic, and, rushing headlong before the gale, defy every obstacle that presents itself to their wild career. They are then inevitably lost; and, over- come by fatigue, they either perish in the snow or meet their death by fall- ing down the precipitous sides of some ravine. These ravines are called haiku,' and occur frequently in the steppes that lie between the Dniester and the Don. To the North of the Crimea they are most frequent, and in some parts follow each other in quick succession, and always in the direction

from North to South. *

• Russia on the Black Sea and Sea of Azof : being a Narrative of Travels in the Crimea and Bordering Provinces; with Notices of the Naval, Military, and Com- mercial Resources of those Countries. By H. D. Seymour, M.P. With a Map, &c. Published by Murray. " The melting of the snow in the months of March and April changes the ravines into torrents, the waters of which, rushing with incredible violence, form an insurmountable obstacle to travellers. The ground, saturated with the melted snow, becomes so soft that light-laden waggons sink in it to the axletrees : and during this season it is not unoommon to meet the wrecks of many of them that could not be dragged through the mud and have been abandoned. Poet-carts, that convey but one or two persons besides the driver, of the lightest and smallest description, dragged by five horses, pro- ceed only at a foot's pace."

According to this—and Mr. Seymour's description does not stand alone—neither provisions and ammunition, nor scarcely the men and animals of an army, could make their way during the heavy rains of autumn, the depth of winter, or the melting snows of spring, from Odessa to Perekop and thence to Sebastopol. The Russians, however, appear to have accomplished the task; at what expense of life, perhaps we shall never know. The success of the expedition to the Sea of Azoff naturally ex- cites attention to other depots of stores. Here is a description of Nicolaief, the Sheerness of Russia; an account of which Lord De Ros omitted in his journal.

"Nicolaief is the only town of the slightest importance on the dreary road from Kherson to Odessa, and is forty miles from the former and seventy- seven miles from the latter place. It stands in the open steppe, at the con- fluence of the Boug and the Ingoul, on the left bank of the former river, and twenty-two miles from its mouth. The Boug is here a noble stream, a mile and a half broad, and so deep that the largest men-of-war can ascend and descend after taking out their guns. Its right bank is deep and preci- pitous, and the left bank low and shelving ; a peculiarity, as I have before remarked, of all the rivers of Southern Russia. This was likewise found to be the case at the Alma. This town was founded in 1791, and intended to replace Kherson as the head-quarters of the Russian fleet in the Black Sea. It is simply a naval arsenal ; and contains a population of 10,000 or 12,000 persons, entirely occupied in the Government establishments. There are here immense storehouses and dockyards, in which all the Russian fleet in the Black Sea is built. The timber for shipbuilding comes chiefly down the Dniepr to Kherson, and from thence to Nicolaief. All the vessels con- structed here are transported empty down the river to Gloubdky or Ochilkow, and proceed from thence to the Black Sea on wooden frames called camels, because of a sand-bank near Kilberofin, and they take in their cannon and tackle at Sevastopol. The town is quite undefended except by a wall, which has been built not for military but police purposes, to prevent peculation and smuggling, by allowing no ingress or egress without permission. There is no good water at Nicolaief, as that of the rivers is often brackish, as is also that which is obtained from wells; but an excellent spring has been found at some distance from the town, the water of which has now been introduced, and fills a large reservoir, which holds a sufficient quantity for a much larger population than now inhabits Nicolaief."

The difference between the conclusions about Russia drawn from passinmb inspection, or even from long experience, compared with actual results, is not to be traced to inaccuracy in reporting the facts or deficient acumen in reasoning, but to the great difficulty in foreseeing obstacles, and the means of overcoming them which the human mind simultaneously produces—that is after failure. Our manufacturers, of whom we hear so much, are not in this particular exempt from the lot of mortals. New attempts involve cost, and sometimes non-success. The difficulty of forming an esti- mate for work of a new kind is proverbial, and when extensive has led to more than one bankruptcy. The following account of the deficiency of water at Sebastopol looks true enough, but means may be found of counteracting it should the entire city be in- vested.

" The fortifications, then, which render Sevastopol so very strong, are the important works on the Northern side ; for there is no use in taking the town, even if it could be done,. as the strongest part of the fortress would yet remain. At the same time, if an army were brought sufficiently large to invest it completely, the place must fall, because the supplies of food, am- munition, and especially of water, would quickly fail. In water the place is very deficient, as there are no springs in the town, and only two sources out of the town by which it is supplied. One of these is the river which supplies the docks, through the tunnel which has been described as reachin from near Inkerman to the town. This tunnel was recently (January 26 stated to be now used not only as a passage for the water but as a safe roa by which the Russians introduce supplies into the town : and this is highly probable, as there is a footpath on each side of the conduit. The old town of Kherson, as will be stated afterwards, was taken by the Russians in the tenth century by cutting off the water-pipes which supplied the town ; and perhaps this may be the way in which the modern representative of old Kherson will ultimately fall.'

The archaeology and historical narratives are not overdone, and they render the book more complete, though they somewhat im- pede the reader who is looking only to the actual present. From this remark must be excepted the Russian conquests, and the wan- ton destruction of the monuments whether Classical Pagan, Chris- tian, or Mahometan—Greek, Genoese, or Tartar. This was the opening of the barbarian destruction on the first invasion by Marshal Munich, in 1736: the practice has been steadily con- tinued when all military excuse had ceased.

"Exactly one month after their arrival at Perecop, the Russian army ap- peared before the gates of Baktcheserai, which they utterly destroyefl. Two thousand houses and a vast palace of the khans were burnt, and the rich library which had been collected by Selim Geray Khan, and that of the Jesuits, were reduced to ashes. The same fate awaited Akmeshed (Sympherdpol), where the palaces of the IGilga Sultan, and of the principal Mirzas to the number of 1800, were mercilessly given to the flames. Munich bad intended also to seize Kaffa (Theodosia), the most important fortress of Crimea, when an ill- ness obliged him to return to Perecop, where he received the news of the taking of Kilborodn. The town of Azof had bees, taken a short time before. The march of Munich across the beautiful plains of Crimea was marked by the burning of towns and ravages of all sorts; and the cruelties of which he was guilty have placed his name beside those of Louvois and Catinat, the de- vastators of the Palatinate. Before he left Crimea he razed the lines of Pe- recop, and blew up the fortifications of the town."

The soil and climate of the Steppes in reference to cultivation has been a subject of much consideration. This question, indeed, must determine whether Russia proper ever can be a great nation in an economical and civilized sense. Some, relying on passages in ancient authors, which were probably only reports or traditions, conceive that at least a portion of the Steppes was once covered by forests. Murchison denies the probability. Koch and Tengo- borski hold that the capability varies according. to circumstances. Where salt predominates in the soil, no cultivation of any kind can take place ; where the soil is very shallow, trees cannot grow, though crops may ; where water is not retained, cultivation must always be uncertain ; in favourable positions there seem to exist no natural obstacles to prevent the growth of trees. The care and cost will prevent the attempt from being undertaken by private persons, because the want of elevated land and the very absence of trees render their cultivation difficult from the want of screen against the winds of winter. Mr. Seymour's account of the German colonies seems to show that want of judgment in choosing a site, and of care and skilled labour in cultivating it, have something to do with the barren condition of the Steppes. "The German colonies of the Moloshna, and others of less importance in the vicinity of Mariopol, may be well compared to oases in the desert. Their neat cottages, with well-built barns and out-houses, surrounded by trees and gardens, and by highly-cultivated fields, bear the signs of wealth and com- fort, and of the care bestowed upon them by an industrious and intelligent population. The German colonies form a striking contrast to the dreary country in which they are situated, and to the miserable Russian villages, and the still more wretched Tatar souls, around them. Their situation is always well chosen, on some sloping ground, on the border of one of the few rivulets that water the country. The population of the Steppes is of a mixed character, and is composed of tittle Russians, Tatars, Greeks, Cossacks, Ger- man colonists, Kalmucks, and Armenians. Although living in the imme- diate vicinity of each other, they neither intermarry nor associate much with one another.',

The greater part of the volume is devoted to the countries im- mediately touching upon the Black Sea; but Mr. Seymour intro- duces other subjects. There are two chapters on the Army and Navy : as the facts on the army, however, are chiefly taken from Haxthausen, their value may be questioned. If Haxthausen is himself trustworthy, which may be doubted, it is probable that only such information was given to him as the Russian Government wished to have published. The Navy in general has shown that its most bitter disparagers did it no injustice. The gunners landed at Sebastopol appear to have done their duty, but the sailors are really trained as soldiers. "They wear helmets, and for their common dress the same long drab greatcoats as the army. They are in fact more properly sea-soldiers than sailors. When the Grand Duke Constantine inspected the Black Sea fleet, its Admiral was obliged to ask permission for the sailors to take off their pro- per uniform, as it was found impossible for them to mount the rigging in it." If such men have got their sea-legs, they can hardly have their sea-sight on the "rolling ocean." Mr. Seymour gives an account of the Russians from his own extensive acquaintance among them : he agrees with the author of Nine Years in _Russia as to their natural aversion to war and inclination to trade.

" The most singular thing is, that the people among whom this military organization of the whole nation prevails, is, without exception, the most pacific people on the face of the earth ; and upon this point I believe no difference of opinion exists among all observers. Having lived for several years in a position which enabled me to mix much with the officers and men of the Russian army, such is my strong conviction of the Russian character. M. Haxthausen mentions, as a point admitting of no doubt, the absence of all warlike tendency among the Russian people, and their excessive fear of the profession of a soldier.' The Russian people have no pleasure in wearing arms, like the Turk or the Pole : even in their quarrels among themselves, which are rare, they hardly ever fight; and the duel, which now often takes place among Russian officers, is contrary to the national manners, and a cus- tom imported from the West. The people take no pleasure in the fighting of beasts or birds, as in bull-fights, or ram-fights, or cock-fights, which are common amusements among some Eastern as well as most European nations ; and when the linaRinn is drunk, which often happens, he is never quarrel- some, but, on the contrary, caressing and given to tears."

This natural tendency is designedly thwarted by the Govern- ment for its own ambitious purposes, rather dynastic than national.

"If the military organization of Russia could be once broken up, the people would turn to their natural pursuits, which are decidedly commercial and agricultural. And again, if free trade were allowed in the empire, and the commercial spirit could satisfy its natural cravings, the increased riches, luxuries, and civilization of the country, would show such obvious advantages that the military system could not hold its ground. English merchants in Russia have assured me, that although there are now few Russian merchants engaged in foreign commerce, no people show such natural aptitude for com- mercial concerns. The high tariff which is in force, and the absolute pro- hibition there is against educating their children in Europe, as no young persons between the ages of twelve and twenty-five are allowed under any pretext to be absent from their country, alone repress for political purposes their natural tendencies.

"The Russian people wish for European civilization, and to mix with the other European nations ; but they are not allowed to do so by their Govern- ment; and to check their desire for civilization and their liberal tendencies, I have been informed by a German professor who had minutely studied their educational system, which is under the absolute control of the Government throughout the whole empire, that within the last fifteen years the course of study has been checked and thrown back in all the universities and schools of the empire. It is a well-known fact to all who have lived in Russia, that the Government grew more and more jealous of education up to the breaking out of the present war. Foreign tutors and governesses, who are absolutely essential for all parents who wish to give their children a good education in

Russia, were as far as possible prevented from entering the empire; and two. years ago the Poles were prohibited from studying at the University of Odessa."

Our author's political views are strongly Anti-Russian and Anti- Ministeriel. In his introduction, and frequently in his text, he brings forward opinions, and seems to impute it as something more than an oversight in the British-Government that they did not interfere to check the encroachments of Russia years ago. In. this charge we think he is unjust, or at least inconsiderate. A few speculative thinkers, especially on the Continent, favoured by circumstances which gave vitality to their apprehensions, might have been ripe for raising disputes with Russia to terminate in a war : the British, and indeed the European public, certainly were not. We see the opinion of Germany even now. Under Louis Philippe, France could not have been depended upon. The public at home, including numbers of sound thinkers, would have blamed any Government for hostile entanglements Aout remote objects of uncertain bearing. The Ministry would probably have lost their places, and Russia have rather triumphed than been checked. The following remarks on the future boundary of Rus- sia in the South are well worthy of consideration; for we suppose few entertain Lord John Russell's notion that it is not desirable to reduce the territory of the empire. In a technical sense, how- ever, the Asiatic provinces South of the Caucasus have not been recognized by us as Russian territory.

" When peace shall be made, it will be most fortunate should we be able to secure the freedom of the Eastern coast of the Black Sea by treaty; for the: independence of that country would form one of the best securities against Russian aggression. At the Caucasus Russia may be said to end, and a new class of nationalities to begin ; and she can only desire to possess that moun- tain range with the intention of extending her conquests beyond it.

"The Caucasus, that is, the mountain range itself, and the countries that lie at the foot of them, to the North and South, are the most convenient entrance to the heart of the great table-land of Asia, which, when once thoroughly sub- dued, might constitute an impregnable citadel whence Russia would be en- abled to extend her influence and dominion in every direction. The Cauca- sus is the real citadel of Russian power in the South and East, although as yet beleaguered by the nations from which it has been partially wrested. Russia has surrounded it by an army of 170,000* men, and carefully keeps its. inhabitants from communication with civilized Europe. We have never ac- knowledged the sovereignty of the Russians over this territory, nor over the- Christian provinces to the South of the Caucasus. If her blockade were per- manently removed from the Eastern coast of the Black Sea, and the brave inhabitants of the mountains allowed to carry on a liberal commerce with Europe, their energies would be quickly turned from war to peaceful arts."

• " This was the strength of the army in 1846, when I left it."