19 FEBRUARY 1960, Page 34

Wine of the Week

It is true, though, that she was very partial to the wines of Hochheim—so much so as to paint her name to be given, in 1857, to a particular vineyard there. The proud owner, who was made a royal warrant-holder, put up a hideous memorial, a picture of which, along with coats-of' arms, gold and silver medals, bunches of grape' and much scrollwork, adorns the bottles of Hoch- heimer Konigin Victoria Berg—now being bottled here by Deinhards, and to be had at Fortnums, about 19s. 6d. a bottle. I have just been drinking a bottle of the 1957: it is very light as the wines of this particular district go, but a true and 1 pleasant hock, good as an aperitif or with shell- fish, and the Victorian-baroque label alone is worth a shilling or two, simply to admire at the dinner-table.

CYRIL I AY