COLONEL CUINTYNGHAME 7 S GLIMPSE OF THE GREAT WESTERN REPUBLIC. * THE accidents
of service found Colonel Arthur Cunynghame at Montreal in September 1850, with a seven-weeks leave, which he determined to employ in a survey of the United States from the Lakes to the Mississippi, with a little grouse-shooting on the Prairies as he went along. He proceeded to Chicago by railways and steamers on the lakes ; had some good sport in the vicinity, though late in the season ; and then started for La Salk, a town situate at the head of the navigable waters of the Illinois. After some more shooting there, he made an overland journey to the Mis- sissippi ; and descended to New Orleans, stopping two days at St. Louis. From New Orleans he proceeded to Mobile ; and thence by coach, railway, and sea steam-boats, made his way to New York, Boston, and Montreal. He called in passing at the principal cities of the Southern States—Macon, Savannah, Charlestown, Richmond in Virginia, Washington, and Philadelphia; changing in fourteen days from the delightful autumn of the South to the stern winter of Canada, and throughout his journey making the most of his time. " During this excursion,', says the Colonel with military precision, "I visited every State in the Union, with the exception of six. I travelled over fifty-three hundred miles of the Republic by railway, by river, and by road ; and this my long journey was accomplished in exactly fifty-three days, and my expenses amounted to about the sum of fifty-three pounds sterling." The extent and rapidity of the .journey is something in itself, bringing home to the mind the vigour of the traveller, as well as a feature of the country, which has such an extent of territory and such facilities for getting along. Colonel Cunynghame had two objects in view, field-sports and soldiering, which gave a direc- tion to his inquiries and observations. It is more to the purpose that he is well fitted to travel with advantage, through the train- ing of varied military service, the experience which it gives, and his own native qualities. As in his Recollections of Service in China, he exhibits a knowledge and appreciation of other matters than war and sports, or qualities connected with physical power. A good deal of experience enables him to look upon mere modes with indifference, and to take things as he finds them. He dis- plays his old turn for economical matters; the wonderfully rapid growth of the towns along the Western line of civilization being broadly and distinctly impressed upon the reader, while detailed information is at the same time furnished that will be useful to emigrants. The social peculiarities of the country also attracted his attention, 'whether small, as manners, or large, as the probable prospects of the great Republic. And none of these things are done by dry generalization, but illustrated by the incidents or cir- cumstances that induce the conclusion.
Like Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley, and some other travellers, Colonel Cunynghame has formed a better opinion of the Americans than common visitors have promulgated: unlike Lady Emmeline, Mr. Abdy, and others, his conclusions have not been drawn from select society, but such company as he fell in with in steam- ers, railways, coaches, and hotels, or wayside houses in the far West. In matters of the table, the Colonel does not think the Americans eat more than Englishmen, or show more impatience, if indeed so much—perhaps because the waiters would not readily bear it : and he speaks favourably of more substantial qualities. His great objections are to the eternal spitting practised by everybody, and the indifference often amounting to incivility on the part of bar- keepers, waiters, and railway-conductors, in the Northern States ; in the South things are better. The only instance, however, of ac- tual rudeness Colonel Cunynghame encountered, was in a Southern railway ; yet that melted under a speech.
"About nine in the evening of the 14th of November, I started per rail for Philadelphia, distant ninety-nine miles. Shortly after quitting the ter- minus at Baltimore, I left my seat for a few moments, to speak to the con- ductor, who was in an adjoining car; but, to my surprise, on my. return I found it occupied by two men : upon my remonstrating, one of them flew into a most violent passion, and said I might walk over his dead body to my seat. I calmly explained to him, that for such a trifle as any particular seat in a railway-ear, I had neither a wish to take his life nor lose my own in such an absurd contest ; that there were plenty of vacant seats, concern- ing which there appeared no choice : upon which he became as quickly pa- cified, and desired his companion instantly to quit his seat for me. After a few moments' silence, turning round to me, he said, would have lost my life sooner than have given up that seat ; but you talked so pretty-like, you quite conquered me.' At the first halting-place, he was extremely desirous I should enjoy a glass of cocktail at his expense; and on my declining, he appeared to have half a mind to recommence his quarrelsome behaviour - but suddenly, taking up his coat, he vanished from the car. I mention this circumstance, because during my entire excursion of upwards of five thou- sand miles in the United States, part of which journey was through so wild a country, this was the only instance in which I met with anything border- ing on rudeness of a personal character."
Slavery attracted a good deal of the traveller's attention. At first, the satisfied appearance of the generality of the slaves, and what he heard in society as to the discredit which attached to their ill-treatment, or the separation of families, disposed him to regard the institution with more lenity than subsequent experience proved that it deserved. He does not believe that ill-treatment generally takes place—perhaps not a separation of families if the owner can • A Glimpse at the Great Western Republic. By Lieut.-Col. Arthur Cunynghame, Author of "An Aide-de-camp's Recollections of Service in China." Published by Bentley.
help himself; but this he cannot always do ; and in case of in- solvency, death, or family changes, he is convinced that families are divided as a matter of course. The following conversation with a slave-dealer tells a good deal in connexion with the subject. The scene is on a railway running through North Carolina and Virginia.
"At three p.m. we arrived at Godsborough : we hero found dinner await- ing us. Whilst getting into the cars, I observed standing near the door of one of them, a gang, as they were termed, of Negroes. It consisted of three women and two children. In a moment the steam-vessel blew a shrill blast, as usual the signal for starting, and commenced its movement. At the same time I observed two gentlemen at the door of the car in conversation. One appeared rather well-dressed; the other was a short, stout, goodnatured-look-
ing man. These, it appeared, were slave-dealers. Come,' said the dandy dealer, 'I'll give you twenty-one hundred and fifty for the lot.' Say twenty-two hundred,' said the stout man, in a huge waterproof, 'and they
are yours.' Well, done,' said the first ; I hate not to do business.' Get in, you niggers,' exclaimed both ; and the sale was completed between their white masters.
"These five fellow-creatures were sold, nor did a compact embodying the happiness of five fellow-beings even take the same time to ratify that we were employed at our repast, but actually- was consummated after the signal had been given for the starting of the cars, and during the time indeed that they were on the move. Seeing that these slaves were all women, I inquired where their husbands, the probable fathers of these little children, were No one appeared, however, sufficiently interested to vouchsafe even a thought, much less a reply. Both of these slave-merchants now fell into a long con- versation regarding their honourable employment ; but presently the one who had sold the slaves came and seated himself near to me. It being the first transaction of the kind that I had witnessed, I felt the more interested, and made immediate inquiries respecting the property he had just disposed of. Great was his astonishment to perceive that I should feel any interest whatever in the matter. I said, by way of commencing our conversation, that I considered the slaves dear at the price ho had sold them. Oh no,' said he, niggers, sir, are regulated by the price of cotton ; cotton is now high, and niggers are ris He added, that the slave-merchant to whom he had sold them was a dealer from the lower Southern States ; that he would now take them to Georgia or Alabama, and sell them for three thousand dol- lars. ' Why,' added he, 'one little girl is a mulatto, and, as you might have perceived, nearly white ; I purchased her only a few days since, from her father, who is a planter, and resides not far from hence. He was about to marry, and fearing a disturbance with his future wife, he sold both his child and her mother.' How do the slaves,' I inquired, ' bear this change in their masters and location ?" Why,' answered he, 'they take on dread- fully at first ; but when they are well fed with pork, corn-bread, and mo- lasses, they soon forget their former homes, and become reconciled to their new masters ; for in this country they arc nearly starved, being fed upon nothing but fish and sweet potatoes, and many whom I have bought at the age of fourteen or fifteen did not even know the taste of meat.' "He then detailed an interesting account of his professional avocations. Oftentimes,' said he, 'the residents of these Eastern swamps own more than one hundred slaves ; they are of not much service to them ; but never- theless they frequently can scarcely be induced to part with them : I, how- ever,' added the slave-dealer, 'get among them, and after a hit or two at cards, I soon make them turn sonic of the slaves over to me.' They some- times, then,' said I, 'separate families, and even the husband and wife ? ' Oh yes, certainly,' said he ; but a husband soon finds another wife, and the woman, if she is likely, gets another husband.' Do you often procure light-coloured slaves,' I inquired ; 'and if so, are they in demand?" Oh yes, some nearly white,' he replied, and occasionally very intelligent and clever.' This was the spontaneous and voluntary account given to me of his professional proceedings by the slave-dealer."
The author's remarks on the American army, and his descrip- tion of portions of the force that fell under his notice, are inform- ing. The following is from his account of a visit to West Point.
"West Point is the military academy of the United States ; combining the instruction imparted to young men in England at the three establishments of Sandhurst, Woolwich, and Chatham. It is situated about eighty miles up the Hudson river, in a commanding and most salubrious position, and is sur- rounded by as grand and lovely scenery as the world can boast of. I had a most agreeable Journey on the railroad which runs on the verge of the Hud- son river. On my arrival at West Point I was received by the Commandant with great affability, and an officer of artillery was immediately requested to show me over the collese,, . A vast range of new buildings have lately been constructed, to which the old ones, by being pulled down, are gradually as these are completed made to give place. They are situated on a plateau or broad step, on the lofty mountain-side ; by which they are sheltered in win- ter, and which in summer causes a cool draught of air constantly to circu- late around them. The cadets were very comfortably lodged, two in each room ; but, from the method in which they were arranged, they might more appropriately be said to possess each a small sleeping apartment and one common sitting-room for the two. The library is a handsome edifice, and in the interior very well fitted up. It was well stored with books, and deco- rated with numerous trophies from the Republic at Mexico. The cadets number about two hundred and fifty ; the appointments resting in the hands of the members of Congress, who each have the opportunity of presenting about one military candidate annually. " Although the United States army is limited, yet from this source alone almost ever.y.vacancy is filled up ; for although the President possesses the power of giving commissions, yet he very rarely exercises it. Taking all branches of the service collectively, there occur about fifty vacancies in the army per annum; and should the usual period of study at this college have elapsed prior to a vacancy having occurred, to prevent any idle habits being engendered the young men are attached to different corm to do duty as supernumeraries until they can be regularly provided for. While at the col- lege, they receive pay at the rate of twenty-eight dollars a month, besides rations and clothing. This sum is about equivalent to their expenses ; and as the pay of an officer is quite sufficient to support him handsomely, and the system of purchasing promotion is unknown, a military presentation to West Point is tantamount to a provision for life. The studies are very severe in the spring, autumn, and winter ; but during the two summer months all work within doors is laid aside, a camp on the plateau is formed, and the students live in tents, sleeping on boards ; no bedding beyond a soldier's
blanket being allowed them. They arc then instructed practically in field- fortifications, throwing up intrenchments and other field-works, besides prac- tical gunnery in all its branches, and a thorough course of laboratory work,
such as making fusses, filling shells, &c. &c. The usefulness of this prac- tical instruction cannot be too highly commended ; and as every cadet who
is about to enter any branch of the service is obliged to undergo it, each and every one of them must understand a considerable portion of the rudiments at least of all branches of the profession • and in this respect I make bold to observe some little improvement might take place in the instruction of our military cadets at home. " This system of universal military instruction has many benefits : it in- wares that an officer, in whatsoever branch of the profession he may be, must have a certain knowledge of all the rest ; and should he be placed in a critical position, it will enable him to place a reliance on his own resources, and en- able him to judge for himself; whereas, if he were ignorant of all but the immediate branch of the army in which he serves, he must be entirely de- pendent in respect to all the rest upon those who are about him. " A troop of sixty horses is kept for the use of the cadets ; who not only receive instruction in the school, but certain classes of them at stated perio& ride in the country."
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