Saucy roots
Marika Hanbury Tenison
For many gardeners mint and horseradish tend to be considered as weeds rather than essential plants to grow in the herb garden. A new and, on the whole, extremely useful paperback published by Magnum, Fresh from the Garden, written by Roger Grounds, an experienced gardener, and Robin Howe who is one of our most versatile cookery writers, goes as far as to say that you should 'think well before you decide whether you really do want to cultivate horseradish.' In the same book the advice given for the use of mint occupies only ten lines, which, when you consider that there are over 30 varieties which can be grown, each with a different flavour, seems a little sparing.
A pamphlet distributed by the marmalade makers, Frank Cooper, called The Seeds of Greediness which contains 'A few fascinating facts about Mint Sauce and Horseradish', treats both these plants with the respect they undoubtedly deserve although, not surprisingly, they suggest you do not try to grow your own horseradish and mint but rely on their bottled products instead. Their products are indeed very good and extremely useful to have for winter and emergency use; but they are nowhere near as versatile and valuable as the fresh horseradish root and the varieties of mint that can be picked to add flavour and freshness to so many dishes and drinks.
While most gardeners complain about the rambling habits of horseradish and mint I seem to be almost alone in having the opposite problem. Last year I managed to kill off my horseradish by using so many roots from a reasonably large plant that the poor thing gave up; and this year I will have to start again. The same thing, unbelievably, happened to four out of the five varieties of mint we grew; I cut and cut them for my kitchen until so little strength was left in the roots that they were knocked out by the severe winter. • Horseradish is grown from root cuttings, or 'thongs', which should be planted seven centimetres deep and 30 centimetres apart in good rich soil which has been well dug to allow their roots to reach deep down and they should be allowed to establish themselves for at least a year before you use the roots. Horseradish, which grows wild in many parts of Britain, south-east Europe, western Asia and the Middle East, is, in fact, no relation to the ordinary radish although the same sharp flavour occurs in each. Cochlearia amoracia belongs to the mustard family, has large leaves similar to those of the dock family and carries small, rather insignificant, white flowers. Roots can be dug and used when they have reached a length of about 12 inches and are two inches thick. The roots are peeled and then coarsely grated before use and if you want to keep the grated root for any length of time it should be mixed with a little vinegar and stored in a tightly screwed jar. Do not try to freeze horseradish as, for some reason, it quickly loses all its flavour. The practice of eating horseradish sauce with beef (add grated horseradish soaked in a little white wine vinegar to whipped cream seasoned with salt and pepper for the best results) came to Britain from Germany, and by the end of the 19th century was so popular that to eat roast beef without it was considered thoroughly ungentlemanly. Nowadays it is also eaten with smoked mackerel and smoked fish mousse — I also add it to a Cumberland sauce for gammoll' And one of the most delicious first courses I can remember was a simple jellied cucumber ring filled with whipped creaul flavoured with horseradish, a little paprika and some chopped smoked oysters.
The history of mint being used as a medicinal and also a culinary plant is a long one, and there are references to the Romans using it as a sauce for lamb, flavouring their wine with the leaves and using it to stimulate the appetite. In the East mint was widely used as a preservative as well as 3 flavouring, and it occurs in many Indiaa dishes. The use of strong herbs and spices10 Eastern cookery is not, as many people, believe, in order to disguise the ranciditY meat but in order to preserve it and prevent it going 'off in a hot and hum'u climate.
In English gardens the mint most cony monly found is spearmint but it is a pityMIti to experiment with the other well-define1", flavours of the mint family. Apple an' pineapple mint, for instance, are delicious with strawberries, pineapple and melon, 3 few leaves chopped in a fruit salad add a wonderful flavour and if you add solve finely chopped apple mint to an apple sot: bet or water ice you have a dessert 0! perfection. Spearmint is the traditional ingredient of mint sauce but I find that hY combining three or more varieties of mint my sauce I produce one that guests invarr ably comment on. Peppermint is good ia vodka and lime served with lots of ice, apPle mint is superb in a Pimm's and is also the best variety to use, bruised with a little sugalt of course, in a Mint Julep. Chopped rnin can be sprinkled over a cucumber or tomat° salad, it can be used as a garnish for hot 01 cold soups, it is excellent in almost any srev‘ or casserole of lamb, in stuffings, in Out' neys and with cottage cheese. Hullbrook House Herb Farm, Hullbrooll Lane, Shamley Green, Surrey carry a ful selection of mint plants, and if you arc worried about them spreading through thef garden plant them in pots or line an area ° ground with polythene or slates. Unlitte horseradish mint does freeze well so Y°L; can be assured of a good supply through° the winter.
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