STRANG'S GERMANY IN 1 8 3 1.
MR. STRANG ran over Germany in 1831, when its mind was alarmed by the expectation of the Cholera, and excited by the Revolution of the Barricades. Neither pestilence nor politics, however, was his main object : that was to form a personal acquaintance with the Germany literati, with whose writings he was already familiar, and the fame of some whom, we may sup- pose, he had contributed to spread by his translations. When death, or sickness, or accident disappointed the literary pilgrim. or when the lettered lion (as always happened) was not sufficient to occupy the whole of his time, Mr. STRANG went about gazing and listening. And what he saw he describes, much of what he heard he tells ; sketching the general appearance of a town, its public buildings—as churches, theatres, hospitals, galleries of art, and collections of books ; as well as the classes and manners of the inhabitants, their amusements, looks, and modes of living. Mr. STRANG also picks up sonic facts connected the past history, or the present statistics of a place; and he looks sharp after its morals, and states results which he might as well have dropped. The political opinions and predilections of the people are reported, so far as they could be gathered in a rapid tour ; as well as the nature of the government, and Mr. STRANG'S opinion upon its character. The men of letters he fell in with, the tourist of course paints fully : when absent, he describes them at second-hand ;. when dead, he treats the reader to their history and their works,— points which are not forgotten as regards the living. Besides all these subjects, there are the minuter events that regularly occur to all tourists—the public conveyances in which he travelled, the companions he met, the inns he put up at, and the great ones of the earth who occasionally crossed his path.
Accounts of these things, intermingled with (perhaps too many). reflections and opinions of his own, Mr. STRANG was in the habit of writing off to his friends at home ; and of these letters the present publication consists. Hence many of the merits and defects of the volume are readily explained. Its lightness and vivacity convey the vividness of first impressions, and spring from the conjoined excitement of novelty and travel. Some things,. censurable in point of taste, others, trite or trivial as regards the public at large, were addressed to individuals, and mightinspire an interest in single minds which they will lack when addressed to a multitude. Writing to friends, who from sympathy of inti- macy and congeniality of disposition, might feel a curiosity in his opinions however minute, simply because they were his, Mr. STRANG becomes too diffuse and disquisitional for indifferent readers—he beats his metal into too thin a leaf. Hence, in despite of a smart style, the want of closeness and character will be felt in perusing the volumes. The length of time which has elapsed between their composition and appearance is also a drawback. Part of what the writer tells is dead and gone; part has been forestalled by others. The route of our author was rather round Germany than through it : and, as his main object was not the picturesque, but men, his haunts were cities rather than the country, which he passed ra- pidly through Lel briefly describes. An enumeration of the prin- cipal cities he v.sited will therefore mark his course. The first was Hamburg; the second Berlin,—whose peculiarities are not left unexhausted for want of space, as the first volume is entirely de- voted to them and their environs. His next resting-places were Leipsic and Dresden ; in both of which, the author of Germany and the Germans him somewhat anticipated him in time of publication if not of visiting. Prague, the capital of Bohemia, next received our traveller. Thence he journeyed to Vienna ; within whose plea- sure-giving walls lie might have lingered for ever, had not the advance of the Cholera frightened hint away. From Vienna he proceeded to Munich ; and, after visiting several of the smaller cities, closed his correspondence at Carlsruhe. Of the different places where Mr. STRANG sojourned, the ac- count of Hamburg is the fullest and the liveliest; that of Berlin, if not the most informing, yet looks so, from the commercial sta- tistics and the descriptions of the Prussian system of education it contains; those of Vienna and Carlsruhe are the most interesting, from the social and courtly sketches of the former, and the cha- racters of the "Parliament men " of Baden, who were holding a session in the latter city at the time Mr. STRANG passed through.
Without strictly confining our extracts to these places, we will begin with a subject from Vienna, which never seems to tire- Prince MarreaNicx. He was younger by some years when be- held by Mr. STRANG, than by the author of Germany and the Germans.
On the first glitnpse which I had of the Austrian Prime Alinister, I fancied I beheld the Duke of Wellington ; but, on a second look, I discovered that his face was fuller and much less sharp and haggard than that of the hero of Water- loo. There is, however, a very singular resemblance in the great lines and character of their faces. The contour of the visage is the same in each ; the expression about the mouth is not unlike; while the self-complacence which plays on both countenances, indicating a feeling of conscious superiority, is re- markably similar. • " Prince Metternich is taller than his English brother politician, and walks erect, with a cool and deliberate step. The impression made by his appearance is highly favourable, as he has altogether a hatulsoine face and a graceltd per. son. 7 o those whom he addressed, he seemed particularly affable; and al- though it struck me that there was a constant under-current of thought going OD in his mind, he showed wonderful tact in the distribution of these personal courtesies, having a word in season for all tabu crossed his path. The Prince was attired very much like an Englishman. Ile sported a black coat and nan- keen trousers, a black silk stock, and a white hat.
The skill with which this arch-political juggler pulls the wires which direct the Imperial puppets of Austrian diplomacy, is almost proverbial. Proofs of his diplomatic capabilities are to be had daily. For instance, at the public pro- menade, which takes place about five o'clock in the afternoon, along the beauti- ful valley of St. Ileleua, whither the crowd of fashiatiables proceed in car- riages, 1 remarked the Prince at one numwnt strolling forth with his neo ly -
married [nide (this is his third); at another, arm in arm with the French Ambassador, Marshal liaison, who, though an limiest John-Bull-looking per-
sonage, has a countenance which at once tells you that he at least will not be the hrst to bring disgrace on the high diplomatic character of his nation. Next, I observed him pouring a joke into the laughing flee of the Spanish Minister ; and anon, II "liarly communicating with our bight v-respected Chargi:. d'Af-
faires, Mr. Forbes, who, since the departure of Lund Cowley, has had on his shoulders the whole weight of British interest connected with the diplomacy of
Austria. To crown all, I observed hint immediately afterwards in close con. saltation with the Bussim Ambassador, whose hand he cordially shook, anxius, no doubt, to extract from the wily politician what his master at that moment thought of Holland. No one, Milted, who watched Metternich's movements with the attention that I did, during the whole of last Sunday, in the church attending mass—in the streets with the King—in the park—at the evening promenade—at the theatre—and also at a ball (of which more anon)—tor he was everywhere to be seen—could have failed to be convinced of the great natural tact of the Blinistet, and of his peculiar capacity for playing the important part which enables him to regulate the affairs of Europe, and to support a despotic system opposed to public opinion and abhorrent to the fecliegs of the age. Metternich, however, is fortunate in this revert, that the Germans are not ill to govern ; since he can always calculate on the loyalty of the inhabitants of Austria Proper, whose wants are most carefully attended to, at the expense of the larger and more distant appendages of the empire. 'With the head and the heart of the
nation sound, he cares but little for the other districts, provided only he can squeeze taxes out of them, and make them contribute to that great standing
military fiwce which not only awes the nation itself but others around. The Prince knows full well, that if an :lust: ran has plenty to eat and wherewithal to find the means of amusement, he cares very little about any thing.
As the object of Mr. STRANG'S tour was literary, we will next take a few passages from his characters of men of letters or men of books. The following present a notice of one of each class, with some incidental information. They have, moreover, the advantage of being less eulogistic than Mr. STRANG'S accounts in general : his literary acquaintances are too often made out "the first fullows in the world."
• • •
A GERMAN EDITOR.
Having got the regular sights over, I burlied to pay my respects to Mr. Stegmanu, the editor of the well-known journal entitled the Allgemeine Zeitung, one of the ablest and most judicious political organs in Europe. This newspaper was originally printed in Ulm, but was removed from that town to Augsburg in 1810. When I entered the editorial sanctum, Mr. Stegmann was busy writing ; but on stating the object of my visit, which I said was to satisfy a wish I had long entertained, to meet an individual whose extensive views and varied knowledge had raised the oewspaper he conducted to the rank of the leading journal of Germany, he immediately laid aside his pen and was all attention. He is a man, I should suppose, about sixty, but still hale and active. His countenance is a good index to his character, as illustrated in the management if his paper. It bespeaks shrewdness and caution, as well as quick perception and decision ; which, you will allow, are, of all other qualiti• cations, the most important for a political writer. Mr. Stegginann is the son of a most respectable but unfortunate man, and was at a very early age left to shift for himself. After many vicissitudes, and passing through various situa- tions, he became editor of the Allgentrine Zeitteng, as far back as the year 1804; and since that period he has laboured most industriously to sustain its high character. You are perhaps aware that this is the only political journal .of Germany which is allowed freely to circulate in Austria and its dependen- cies; but the reason for so gracious a toleration, which I am about to explain, will no doubt be new to you. Since my arrival here, I have heard it repeatedly asserted, that the edition for Germany is often very different from that which is circulated in Austria ; in other words, that while in the former there are fre- quently articles of the most liberal description admitted, it universally happens, that from the latter these are carefully excluded, and their place supplied by a quantity of &drum. I threw out some hints on this subject to Mr. Steg- mann, but he had too much tact and prudence to make any confession. A friend, however, has furnished me with an instance in point, which is incontrovertible. None of the famous articles upon Poland and its cause, which lately appeared in the edition circulated here, were inserted in the copies sent to Austria. It is thus clear, that while the other inhabitants of Germany were preseuted with the honest and energetic appeals of the editor in favour of a persecuted people, the subjects of Austria were deemed wholly unworthy of being trusted with their perusal. This, and some other circumstances, leave no room to doubt that the Austrian edition of the Allgemeihe Zeitung is too frequently an emas- culated one—in fact, an edition from which every article that breathes a liberal spirit is most carefully and religiously excluded.
. A GERMAN PUBLISHER'S STATUS AND CAREER.
The publishers of Germany are a very different race indeed from those of England. Here their occupation places them, where they ought always to be, in the category of the nobility of the land ; and it is only fair to say, that they do not dishonour their position. A publisher in Germany is always a man of education, and is justly looked up to as one entitled to a first place in society. I made a 'wising mill at the Cottaische Buchandlung, or Baron Cotta's book
i
establishment, in the hope of getting a peep of this eminent man, whose scien- tific acquirements, literary success, and acquaintanceship with all the leading litterateurs of his native country, have made most deservedly famous. I was not so fortunate, however, as to meet with hits. Cotta's life has been a long and brilliant one. He is at present about sixty-six or sixty-seven years of age; and although he commenced business at Tubingen with a very small capital, he has now realized a princely fortune. The first important speculation in which he engaged, was the establishment of the Allgemeior Zeitung. The publication of this paper, which was commenced at Tubingen in 1798, after being succes- sively transferred to Stuttgart! and Ulm, was finally fixed, as I formerly' men- tioned, at Augsburg. The proprietorship of this powerful and successful politi- cal organ gave Cotta, as you may well suppose, prodigious influence with the &Ili:lent Courts of Germany, whose cause he from principle defended against the then wild doctrines of the French Revolution. This course also secured him the patronage of the various German Princes, and at the same time made him acquainted with the leading European characters, both political and literary, of that age. Although no admirer of Napoleon, he was for several years fre- quently in contact with hint, and doubtless for their mutual advantage. What it glorious position ! to be at once hand and glove with monarchs and princes, while ranking among his intimate acquaintances and ftienda such men as Goethe, Schiller, Herder, Voss, 3lathison, and Tieek, the philosophers Fichte and Schelliog, the Huniboldts and Johannes 3Itiller, and, in fret, almost all the literary and scientific men of Germany. At the Congress of 1'ienna be in vain advocated a law for the general protection of copyright throughout Ger- many ; and at present he is it member of the Wirtemberg Diet, where that im- portant question is keenly and eloquently discussed. In short, it is not going too far to assert of Itaron Cotta, that he is not only one of the most eminent living bibliopolea in the world, but a very extiaordinary man'. As a publisher, he possesses all the spirit and enterprise of our renowned Archibald Constable; but, fortunately fur himself, he has been far inure successful in his speculations.• Mr. STRANG describes literature as being at a low ebb in Vienna : and no wonder—think of an intellect ual work being sub- jected to such processes as these !
AUSTRIAN l'ENs0RsIllr.
In some other countries of the Continent the jealousy of the government is satisfied with the control of a single censor ; but here I am told that HD work whatever can be put to press until it has actually undergone the revision of three distinct officers. For example, the nenno!cript is sent first to the Office of Police, where there are censors appointed for every department of at t, seirnce, literature, polities, and religion. One of the censors, of course, immediately sits in judgment on the various passages of the work. This functionary having made his remat ks upon the margin, it is next submitted to another Oliver to consider these remarks. If the work be political, it is then sent to the Chan- cery. Office; and if religious, to the Consistarial Office.. On being sent back from either, it is then returned to the Office of Police, where it is ag tin re- vised, and the passages; that are permitted to he primed and those to be con- demned are finally fixed it ; when, to crown the whole ordeal, it is necessary that either the Craff Von Sedlmitzky or the Holoolt Von Ohms. the two in- dividuals at the head of the censorship, append their permissive seal of impri- mat4r. Only imagine a couple of cold-hearted official aristocrats, invested with the power of wielding the mental energies of a great nation, and of keep- ing the whole intellect and imagination of Austria ot such chains as they in their wisdom may think fit to forge ! As a striking instance of the jealousy of the Government towards any thing appertaining to literature, I may mention, that a few years ago, when the lead- ing litt6-ateurs of the city had, with unexampled rot diality, formed themselves into a society for friendly intercourse and COIIViVi.dity, the police, without as- signing a single reason, but from a belief, no doubt, that assemblies of men, where full scope was allowed for the exercise of intellect, could neither love the character of a despotic power nor be favourable to its stability, openly declared hostility to this literary association, and instantly put a stop to Its further meetings.
Yet, in despite of the despotism of the Austrian Government, Mr. STRANG, like all other travellers, describes its subjects as contented, and even loyal. The sterner virtues, the loftier pur- suits, or even the more intellectual amusements, have no charm for the Viennese. Gluttony, gallantry, and music, are their ob- jects; and whilst they are well fed, well amused, and left alone to pursue their private, business or private pleasures, they are con- tent—
"Duns tantum res anxius optat, Panem, et Circeoses."
The swine are satisfied with their stye. But the seductions of Vienna also affect the virtue of distant provinces, whose leaders might otherwise be troublesome. At the same time, the remarks in the following passage have an application nearer home. If acci- dent may enable senators to resist the counterparts of the Opera anti Tivoli, or want of taste may render them insensible to the allurements of art, many are equally induced, by regal courtesies, the cajoleries of a minister, or the fashion of a coterie, to shrink from carrying out their provincial principles, just the same as a Hungarian or a Tyrolese.
If a foreigner naturally forgets all his prejudices amid the fascinations of Vienna, it is by no means wouderful to find, that whatever may be the feelings of discontent existing among individuals belonging to the various states which compose this divided empire, when at home, no sooner is one of them brought within the influence of the capital, where pleasure in every variety of form ministers to the senses, than lie seems to forget all his sorrows and his sufferings. The Bohemian nobleman, for instance, when seated in the box of the Hof Theatre, appears to have there no recollection whatever of that feudal grudge towards the Austrian nobles, whom, in his own aristocratical country, he regards as mere mushrooms, and consequently favoured by the Government far beyond their deserts. Surrounded by the satellites of the Court, and enjoying for the moment a participation in Imperial courtesies, the Hungarian aristocrat seems totally to forget the anxiety which he manifests at Pesth to exchange the monarchical for a more perfect oligarchical system of government—a change which he of course imagines would be the perfection of human liberty, but which, in reality, would be infinitely worse than the existing system, seeing that in some degree the policy of the latter is often influenced by the will of the people. The Tyrolese, too, amid the gayeties of Tivoli, appears to consign to oblivion the resentment of his race against the Government on account of the same unjust mode of taxation being now applied to the mountains of the Inn as to the other dependencies of the empire: but, what is worse, he forgets the . dishonour done to the national chiefs—to a Hofer, a Speckbacher, and a Has- pinger ; and while thus lost in the giddy whirlpool of pleasure, he becomes, as it were, a being, if I may so speak, at antipodes with himself. Yesterday, be was the simple, hardy mountaineer ; to-day, he is the luxurious sensualist, and, in the excess of his enjoyment, loses sight altogether of that fire of freedom which always burns in the bosom of the inhabitant of an alpine region—of that glorious spirit of independence which mountain air and mountain scenery • Baron Cotta is since dead. He died al; out the close of Co year 1832. create—of that love of liberty which is associated with the eagle's eyrie, the unfettered bound of the chamois, the unimprisoned rush of the stream and the waterfall, the chainless course of the breeze, and, in fine, with that wild and in- accessible expanse of mountain and of moor that knows no lord. How fatal to Tyrolese virtue are the p leasures of Vienna! Their influence, too, is not less powerful with the children of Ansonia.