15 JUNE 1985, Page 40

Kingsley Amis

Unless the Spectator or some other fount of wealth is paying I go for the Neal Street Restaurant. The menu steers off the old beaten track of escalope and tournedos,

scoring particularly with cold starters, no doubt especially appropriate in summer, though I usually make my lunch out of two of them any time: perhaps Bismarck her- ring in sour cream (with glass of aquavit), and avocado, bacon and lettuce salad. Good sweets too, with Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise by the glass. Separate bar downstairs (Smith's Glenlivet avail- able). Not noisy, not crowded, and they're nice to you.