15 DECEMBER 1990, Page 30

Over the top?

Sir: I suppose any grumbles about the extraordinary assertion of Jeffrey Klinke of the Daily Mail should properly be directed at John Murray (Advertisement). Still, you took the money and perhaps support the publisher's puff in respect of Feast Days. I quote: 'England has been fortunate to produce two first-class cooks who are also brilliant writers — Elizabeth David and now Jennifer Paterson'.

Come, come — your Miss Paterson writes clearly enough, but don't let's over ice the cake. Mrs David is in a class by herself, with perhaps Jane Grigson close behind. The Bag Lady on the scooter would be the first to agree, I hope — though I pray you both sell lots of copies.

Robin Jenkinson

Touffailles, Bourg de Visa, Tarn et Garonne, France