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SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
CUBAN CIGARS
Nicholas Soames
THIS is the second offer this year from the northern lair of Simon Wrightson. The first was extremely well supported, and it is clear that Mr Wrightson's energetic shop- ping around has yielded an impressively eclectic selection of wines. I have tried to choose with great care and, although the result is more expensive than the February offer, I hope that everyone will find some- thing here to enjoy.
Mr Wrightson's relentless search for new treats for his clients takes him all over the world, and he recently made a successful trip to South Africa. Our first white wine is the Eikendal Chardonnay 1999(1), which is currently all the rage in South Africa. The past five vintages have been recognised as being particularly good. It is not produced in large quantities: the grapes are all hand- picked and then directly fermented in new French oak barriques. Clearly it is produced with the greatest of care and the panel loved the result: full of fruit, with a lush and complex mix of flavours. This is high-quali- ty South African white wine, well worth try- ing even at £7.80 the bottle.
The panel was extremely impressed by the Fox Wood Viognier 1999(2). This wine is straw-coloured but with a touch of gold. It is untouched by wet Labradors, and its fruity and floral nose is matched by a crisp, almost sharp, but very refreshing taste. At £6.20 a bottle, it is a lovely wine, full of character, with a delicious flavour; it comes highly recommended.
Our final white is a Wine Club favourite and has been successfully offered twice in the past. The Honore de Berticot Sauvi- gnon Blanc 1999(s), from the Cote du Duras (a satellite of Bordeaux in the Dordogne), has the incomparable advantage of tasting like Sancerre but costing half the price. It has a crisp, clean smell and taste and is truly outstanding value at £4.25 a bottle. Incidentally, it is used as a house wine by a high-class London hotel where it is very popular.
Turning to the reds, the Domaine St Martin de la Garrigue Bronzinelle 1998(4) is just the thing for the onset of autumn. It is deep in colour, with an almost farmyard smell and a rich and powerful taste that packs quite a punch. Considering the sub- stantial demand for it, it is fairly priced at £5.92 the bottle. It is ready for drinking now, but can be kept.
Next the Rouge Homme Coonawarra
Shiraz Cabernet 1998(s). This is a classic Aussie made from the traditional blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in the famous terra rossa soils of Coonawarra. The panel found it excellent. It has a magnificent deep-red colour, and a rich and full flavour with a hint of fruity sweetness. It makes a really -splendid glass and would go particularly well with game. Aussie-fanciers should snap it up at £6.50 a bottle.
Finally, we have the Château La Croix Canon 1997(6). The 1997 clarets are preco- cious and drinking well. This vineyard is owned by Christian Moueix and, in a rela- tively short time, has been catapulted to prominence by his amazing expertise and management. This is not just hype, as you will discover if you order the wine. With a dark-ruby colour, a lovely fruity claret taste and a nose that is frankly showing off, it is a really magnificent mouthful. It is certainly not cheap at £11 a bottle, but it is quite clear that the Moueix magic has worked again.
The sample case works out at £83.34: Well done and thank you again, Mr Wrightson.
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