DAYS AND NIGHTS IN THE EAST
.APPEARS to be a dual work ; the traveller furnishing the "notes," and Miss Plumley contributing the "remarks, reflections, or opinions." Whether the lady accompanied the party on their Oriental trip, is not said ; nor, unless she rewrote and fashioned the whole, do her contribu- tions appear to have been of a very important nature. Beyond some reflections on the difficulty of identifying Scriptural sites, a few judicious remarks on the impropriety of straining the prophecy relating to Edom, and similar general opinions, we see nothing that anybody could not have written. The idea of a Beaumont and Fletcher concern in travels is not bad, one party performing the feats and the other recording them; but the first attempt is not striking. There is nothing in Days and Nights in the East beyond the compass of "any single hand."
The party whose sayings and doings are recorded by Miss Plumley started from England in December, to pass the winter and spring in the East ; but she judiciously begins her narrative at Syra, whence they steamed to Alexandria. Here the usual excursion was gone through,— eairo, the Pyramids and the ascent of the Nile to Luxor. Returning to Cairo, the great Pyramids, wandered through the wilderness to Mount Sinai ; thence penetrated to the rock-scooped city of Petra ; visited the usual places of Palestine and Syria; and ended by a steam-trip to Con- stantinople and Athens.
We must once more say, there is nothing new in this route ; and the original noter has not enough of native acumen, cultivated observation, or the stimulus of a pursuit, to enable him to impart novelty to his notes by extracting character from the mass of matters that passed before him. The mere travels consist of a brief and bald account of scenery, that has been more characteristically described already, and of men and manners that have been exhibited in every aspect. Sometimes a particular land- scape may be seen from a point of view differing from that of previous tourists, or make a more striking impression than upon them. The ever-shifting character of Oriental life, with its greater simplicity and exposure, will always present something of newness ; and the little in- cidents, even if no more than annoyances, which every traveller en- counters, may possess some of the interest attached to anecdote. Beyond -these certain points, there is nothing in this volume to attract the public or to warrant its publication. Either the author or editor warns the reader, that the book is not intended for those who are already fami- liar with works which "treat at large of all that the East holds" : but much less knowledge than this will render Days and Nights in the East superfluous, with the exceptions already mentioned. Of these we will take a few.
POWER OF MONEY.
I glanced with some little apprehension at my boots, on having the fact brought to my recollection that it is customary to uncover the feet on entering a mosque: but this was soon relieved by my guide, who thrust a pair of slippers over them; and thus qualified, I walked in. As there were no more slippers to be had, my friend remained at.the threshold: but we had not advanced many paces when he bethought himself of holding up a 3-piastre piece; this overcame their scruples, and (booted as he was) they beckoned him to follow.
The travellers encountered the camp of the pilgrims returning from Mecca ; and the account of their reception would indicate a great change in Mahometan bigotry,—if we could abstract the operation of Mehemet All's cavalry and their commander, nominally to escort the pilgrims, but in reality to keep them in order. Hypocrisy costs an Oriental nothing, and perhaps the civil Hadj would have willingly cut the throats of the Christian dogs had opportunity permitted.
Our next visit was to the tent of a wealthy merchant of Damietta, who in- vited us to his divan with great kindness, and appeared exceedingly pleased: he was a most intelligent and happy-looking fellow, and laughed and talked with a freedom quite foreign to the Mussulman character. He smiled when we told him we were.1...ody tired of the slow rate of travelling in the desert. "The little value the people of the East set upon time surprises an European: not one of our men could give the least idea of their age, and appeared quite astonished when asked the question. Though our Damietta friend had been so many months in the desert, he seemed quite content with the life he was lending: he had his harem with him, and a very large establishment; the ladies were confined in three or four small tents attached to the large divan in which we were seated. As we strolled through the camp, we received invitations from a great many to enter their tents, &c.; which we were obliged to decline, having spent too much time already in smoking and drinking coffee. It was rather strange to see a party of Christian 'dogs' marching through the camp of bigoted Mussulmen, and meeting with smiles and courteous behaviour from all: we were escorted over the encampment by several Hadj, who pointed out everything they thought re- markable: had the Pasha himself been of our number, I do not think they could have shown us more attention. So much toleration quite delighted and surprised me."
DISAPPOINTED WITH THE ARABS.
Our men were handy, and willing to do anything for us, and the Alonins cer- tainly improved on acquaintance; but I was much disappointed with the Arabs generally: they lack that bold and daring spirit of which I always fancied them possessed; and, instead of the open chivalrous bearing which I thought the chief characteristic o the lords of the desert, we found them mean, conning, and avari- cious in the extreme; and on every occasion in which we had to deal with them, have I been disgusted, as they cavilled for piastre after piastre, in the fashion of a Dutch auction. I did hope to see the opinion I had formed fully sustained; and felt exceedingly annoyed as it dwindled on the development of their real charac- ter. There is nothing manly about them, and they rejoice in few good qualities: among these are, however, a strict regard to their own rude laws of honour, and extreme humanity towards animals; it is, no doubt, a mistaken feeling on this point that induces them to refrain from killing an animal when disabled. We had proof, too, that they will on no account kill even the most noxious reptile; and in a country where human life is so little valued, this strikes one as singular.
THE LAST LOOK AT PETRA.
The appearance of Petra, when viewed from any point, is singular and interest- ing, but It is desolate in the extreme: the Arabs rarely enter it; and although many of its excavations are commodious, they seldom make use of them, even for folding their sheep and goats, on account of the scorpions, lizards, and other creeping things, which are to be found under almost every stone. On the first day after our arrival, we found two large scorpions in our tent; and I shuddered every night when I went to bed. At 9 p.m. we had a gentle shower, and the temperature was delightful: went early to rest, having arranged to leave in the morning. 11th. At 7 a.m. I started, before breakfast, attended by only one of the tribe, to take a last long look at El Khasne. I gazed on it with extreme delight, heightened, perhaps, by the knowledge that I should never have another oppor- tumty: it appeared more lovely and brilliant than ever. Of the local colour of the stone I have more than once spoken: it is no exaggeration to call it rosy; it is literally of a pink rose tint, varying only in its hue, which is in some pMces deep, in others only a faint blush : fancy this material wrought into a temple or exquisite beauty, and garlanded with the verdant gifts with which Nature loves to decorate the rain: fancy this, and beyond this, temple, tomb, and heaped rock, glowing in the light of an Eastern sun; and you may have some idea of the spot on which I now looked an adieu which I doubt not is eternal.
M — was there before me; and as we returned together, we once more climbed the moss-grown seats of the theatre, to take a last view thence. And
there we found Mr. 13 , (the Scotch gentleman, who, it may be remembered, set out on the expedition equipped in European costume,) seated, and diligently engaged in comparing the objects around, with—what will it be supposed? with the description in an old number of the Penny Magazine. Other chart or description, I believe, he had none: and singularly constituted must that man have been, who could undertake the journey from Europe only upon the strength of the true but brief account given in the work in question; or who, feeling even the inclination to do so, did not possess himself of some farther information on the subject. But perhaps he was right; for, at any rate, he must have been astonished the more, not knowing what to expect.
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